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<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" color="#000000">I
don't get what you are saying about the Becket Tool, though.
I </font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial"
color="#000000">suppose you have described its use some time or other,
but I sure </font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" color="#000000">don't
remember. Is it a gauge to measure where to cut the wire?
In </font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" color="#000000">which
case, I am guessing you are saying to line up the ink line
to </font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" color="#000000">the
existing pin in the block, probably centered. But the various
cuts </font></blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite" cite><font face="Arial" color="#000000">and
shapes of the wood have me puzzling what they are all
for.</font></blockquote>
<div><br>
The Becket Tool is a gage for cutting the wire to length. In the
photo,</div>
<div>the wire is placed over the center hump. The wire under tension
secures</div>
<div>it to the tool. The tool is drawn back along the wire until the
end is at the</div>
<div>tuning pin hole. I make the hitch loop and leave the wires long
for trimming.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Due to the slack and stretch of longer wire lengths, in order to
maintain</div>
<div>a consistent becket placement in different sections, the gage is
indexed</div>
<div>at the center of the hole for the treble and at the rear of the
hole for the</div>
<div>bass; incrementally for the mid sections.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>The large notch at the left (rear) is for pin height which can be
checked</div>
<div>with the tool vertical or horizontal using the left or back edge.
This photo</div>
<div>is prior to the ink line for an installed pin. In the previous
photo the notch</div>
<div>opposite the ink line is for the same purpose of indexing from an
installed pin.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>With this gage even an occasional stringer can get regimented
beckets</div>
<div>like a seasoned pro who strings all day, every day.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Chipping is simplified too. Knowing the beckets are uniform, chip
with</div>
<div>a wire lifter in one hand and a tuning hammer in the other. Place
all beckets</div>
<div>to the !:00 position. Squeeze beckets, tap coils, space strings.
Pull all</div>
<div>beckets to 2:00. I also use parallel pliers to squeeze the
becket and then</div>
<div>rotate them around the coil to coax the coil tighter. Chip by ear
or ETD</div>
<div>and pull sharp. Address the natural curve in the wire at the
hitch pins,</div>
<div>bridge pins. Pull sharp again. Lift wire at v-bars, tap
counter-bearing curve.</div>
<div>I usually tune to 442 or 4 and regulate/mate hammers, installing
the dampers</div>
<div>as one of the last steps.</div>
<div><br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
Jon Page</div>
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