<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"> <html> <head> <title>RE: [CAUT] existing pinblock prep</title> <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=us-ascii"/> <style type="text/css">  </style> </head> <body> <blockquote type="cite"> <div>I'd buy that tool...I'll also try to make one.   Thanks Jon...</div> <div> </div> <div>David Ilvedson, RPT<br/>Pacifica, CA 94044<br/></div> <div style="padding-right: 5px; padding-left: 5px; padding-bottom: 5px; border-left: #000000 3px solid; padding-top: 5px"> <hr/>Original message<br/>From: "Jon Page" <jonpage@comcast.net> </jonpage@comcast.net><br/>To: caut@ptg.org<br/>Received: 7/26/2008 11:05:51 AM<br/>Subject: [CAUT] existing pinblock prep<br/><br/> <blockquote type="cite"> <p align="left"><font face="Arial" color="#000000">I don't get what you are saying about the Becket Tool, though. I </font></p> </blockquote> <blockquote type="cite"><font face="Arial" color="#000000">suppose you have described its use some time or other, but I sure </font></blockquote> <blockquote type="cite"><font face="Arial" color="#000000">don't remember. Is it a gauge to measure where to cut the wire? In </font></blockquote> <blockquote type="cite"><font face="Arial" color="#000000">which case, I am guessing you are saying to line up the ink line to </font></blockquote> <blockquote type="cite"><font face="Arial" color="#000000">the existing pin in the block, probably centered. But the various cuts </font></blockquote> <blockquote type="cite"><font face="Arial" color="#000000">and shapes of the wood have me puzzling what they are all for.</font></blockquote> <div><br/>The Becket Tool is a gage for cutting the wire to length. In the photo,</div> <div>the wire is placed over the center hump. The wire under tension secures</div> <div>it to the tool. The tool is drawn back along the wire until the end is at the</div> <div>tuning pin hole. I make the hitch loop and leave the wires long for trimming.</div> <div><br/></div> <div>Due to the slack and stretch of longer wire lengths, in order to maintain</div> <div>a consistent becket placement in different sections, the gage is indexed</div> <div>at the center of the hole for the treble and at the rear of the hole for the</div> <div>bass; incrementally for the mid sections.</div> <div><br/></div> <div>The large notch at the left (rear) is for pin height which can be checked</div> <div>with the tool vertical or horizontal using the left or back edge. This photo</div> <div>is prior to the ink line for an installed pin. In the previous photo the notch</div> <div>opposite the ink line is for the same purpose of indexing from an installed pin.</div> <div><br/></div> <div>With this gage even an occasional stringer can get regimented beckets</div> <div>like a seasoned pro who strings all day, every day.</div> <div><br/></div> <div>Chipping is simplified too. Knowing the beckets are uniform, chip with</div> <div>a wire lifter in one hand and a tuning hammer in the other. Place all beckets</div> <div>to the !:00 position. Squeeze beckets, tap coils, space strings. Pull all</div> <div>beckets to 2:00.  I also use parallel pliers to squeeze the becket and then</div> <div>rotate them around the coil to coax the coil tighter. Chip by ear or ETD</div> <div>and pull sharp. Address the natural curve in the wire at the hitch pins,</div> <div>bridge pins. Pull sharp again. Lift wire at v-bars, tap counter-bearing curve.</div> <div>I usually tune to 442 or 4 and regulate/mate hammers, installing the dampers</div> <div>as one of the last steps.</div> <div><br/>Regards,<br/><br/>Jon Page</div> </div> </blockquote> </body> </html>