<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Thanks Ed. amd all</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">I may try some riblets. I needled
a lot and got some good results which brought out more reasons why the
board is going bad. Although, good things happened! Lifting
strings, tappping bridge pins down, (and strings, actually "massaging
them into the nook of termination) took out almost all the false beats
that were bugging me to death. The sustain is very good overall,
but the real power isn't there for a 9'. I think, again, this is
the soundboard talking to me. It sounds more like a 7'-er in the
mid and high treble...The bass is still quite good and I'll finish evening
it out tomorrow. Any other hints would be greatly appreciated!! How
do you all let the piano tell you that the soundboard is going even with
decent downbearing??? </font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Thanks again all! You're an awesome
resource for knowledge</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">Paul</font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif"> </font>
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<td width=40%><font size=1 face="sans-serif"><b>A440A@aol.com</b> </font>
<br><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Sent by: caut-bounces@ptg.org</font>
<p><font size=1 face="sans-serif">07/26/2008 09:38 AM</font>
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<div align=center><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Please respond to<br>
College and University Technicians <caut@ptg.org></font></div></table>
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<div align=right><font size=1 face="sans-serif">To</font></div>
<td><font size=1 face="sans-serif">caut@ptg.org</font>
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<div align=right><font size=1 face="sans-serif">cc</font></div>
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<div align=right><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Subject</font></div>
<td><font size=1 face="sans-serif">Re: [CAUT] HELP</font></table>
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<br><tt><font size=2>Paul writes:<br>
<br>
<< I thought I grabbed the acetone to put some <br>
below the staple to help the fundamentals, but instead, grabbed the <br>
lacquer! After seeing what I had done, I quickly grabbed the acetone
and <br>
tried to dilute what I had done. I'll check it out Sunday or Monday
after <br>
all has dried, but; Have I ruined these hammers?!?!? <br>
<br>
I doubt it. What happens below the staple can easily be manipulated
by <br>
working farther up in the hammer. At some point down there, the maker even
has a <br>
thick slab of glue that has wicked into the hammer felt! <br>
<br>
>>I thought the Ronsen's didn't need laquer and such. <br>
<br>
Depends on many things. Any hammer can be put in a
situation where it is <br>
too hard or too soft for the purpose. <br>
<br>
>>I was disappointed <br>
with the initial response. Now, the bass is good with a 4:1 laquer
<br>
treatment on the lower shoulders--twice in the single strings, but the
<br>
killer octave area is really weak and tinny. >><br>
<br>
I suppose there is a philosophical perspective at
work here ("The flow <br>
of energy through a system tends to organize that system".) However,
I don't <br>
understand why time is left out of the equation, ie, hammers, initially,
do <br>
NOT sound like they will after the first say, 40 hours of play. I
think there <br>
is a reason to do nothing, initially. (This isn't usually applicable
to the <br>
concert stage.) <br>
Playing the hammer, after the felt has been stretched,
pressed, glued, <br>
shaped, tapered, will cause the felt to change. It moves around, seeking
<br>
equilibrium between the pressure and stretch. Not only will the surface
compact, <br>
and the felt directly below the strings begin to harden, but the
fundamental <br>
structure of the bulk of the felt will become more resilient, (assuming
it is <br>
accepting of a needle, and not been soaked in a hardener). <br>
I look for a hammer that produces various spectra according
to the force <br>
of blow. Plotted against our hearing bias, there is something very
<br>
non-linear about all this, in terms of response. To get that, for me, requires
a <br>
graduated density in the felt, from the contact down to the core. Early
in my <br>
career, I assumed that the rock hard level should be reached only at the
bottom of <br>
the felt core, and the softening would be spread over the entire dimension
<br>
from there to strike surface. This allowed for a maximum range of
tone, from <br>
foggy to brilliant, but the weak wristed need not play: it took a
lot of muscle <br>
to use all the range. Comments like, "sounds good, but it's
a lotta work to <br>
get tone", etc. I have since changed my idea on this. <br>
I have gotten good results by leaving a lot
more of the hammer's <br>
"heart" in its original compression, and creating the "non-linear
spring" in a <br>
smaller zone, nearer to the surface. It is a little trickier, but
allows for a <br>
longer hammer life and ease of voicing. A big part of this is letting
the <br>
hammer break in before I begin doing things to it. I have used so
many Renner <br>
Blues, that I can needle them on the bench, before I do anything else.
They <br>
usually sound a little "cotton-ish" at first, but after a week
or two of daily <br>
play, they require some medium deep needles up around 10:00-11:30 on the
<br>
shoulders to loosen them up to their final voice. I rarely need to
needle at 12:00 <br>
on these hammers. <br>
The last set of Abel's and Ronsen's have behaved much the
same way, with <br>
a few differences. These were mainly in the sense of how quickly they broke
in <br>
and the felt seemed a little less resiliant, (judging from the way the
<br>
filed-off pile of felt felt). <br>
Loudness depends on the upper partials, power requires the
lower ones. <br>
To combine the two, in an evenly graduated way, is the art of producing
a piano <br>
with a "malleable tone". Pianists instinctively like this,
as it allows a <br>
musical control that is unavailable on a piano that starts and ends with
one <br>
tonal character. <br>
<br>
Regards, <br>
<br>
<br>
Ed Foote RPT <br>
http://www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/index.html<br>
www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html<br>
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