<div> David, I have been using sandpaper, too.  80 grit wet/dry with spray adhesive on the back (120 if you want to lower the hammer flange center pin just a tad).  The rocks on that paper do make the flanges stay put.  I learned this from Richard Davenport, who has done it this way for many years. Alan Eder </div> <div> </div> <div> </div> -----Original Message----- From: Porritt, David <dporritt@mail.smu.edu> To: College and University Technicians <caut@ptg.org> Sent: Mon, 18 Aug 2008 4:04 pm Subject: Re: [CAUT] S&S hammer flange rail material and cheap mylar <div id="AOLMsgPart_0_eb27ffa0-c93f-471b-8c76-f0e2e5cb5505" style="margin: 0px; font-family: Tahoma,Verdana,Arial,Sans-Serif; font-size: 12px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"> <pre style="font-size: 9pt;"><tt>Alan: I've used just about everything on hammer rails from name board felt, to Genuine Steinway hammer rail felt to sandpaper. I think I've been happiest with sandpaper. Flanges stay where I put them better that way. One of our esteemed colleagues used to recommend leaving them naked and I've done that too. Sandpaper is still my favorite. dp David M. Porritt, RPT <a href="mailto:dporritt@smu.edu">dporritt@smu.edu</a> -----Original Message----- From: <a href="mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org">caut-bounces@ptg.org</a> [<a href="mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org?">mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org</a>] On Behalf Of Alan McCoy Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 5:55 PM To: College and University Technicians <<a href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">caut@ptg.org</a>> Subject: [CAUT] S&S hammer flange rail material and cheap mylar Hi Folks, I've used a variety of materials for this application. I'm about to put on another set of S&F and wanted to hear what other techs are using. I've been searching the fabric stores to find a good material with no success yet. I'm thinking wool or cotton with some body to it. The strips from S&S are $8 each. Being cheap, I'd like to be able to do 5 actions for $8 and figure I can do that if I find the right fabric. Speaking of finding something cheap. I called around last month to try to find a roll of Mylar. I called a local graphics supply store and they happened to have a "damaged" roll of mylar (core was very slightly flattened) that they would sell to me for $5. The roll is something like 30" by 150 feet, which would normally sell for more than $100. That's a lot of bridge patterns! So if you're looking for some mylar, you might search around for "damaged" rolls. Apparently if the cardboard core is flattened slightly the roll can't be used in machines. Thanks for your thoughts. Alan -- Alan McCoy, RPT Eastern Washington University <a href="mailto:amccoy@mail.ewu.edu">amccoy@mail.ewu.edu</a> 509-359-4627 509-999-9512 </tt></pre> </div>  <div id='u8CACFAC8D2C8C92-B40-ACC2' class='aol_ad_footer'><HR style="MARGIN-TOP: 10px"><A title="http://mapquest.com/toolbar?ncid=mpqmap00050000000010" href="http://mapquest.com/toolbar?ncid=mpqmap00050000000010" target="_blank">Get the MapQuest Toolbar</A>. Directions, Traffic, Gas Prices & More! </div>