<div dir="ltr"><div>I would think it would affect the sos adjustment, you would have to cut the wires, and the up stop rail might not have enough adjustment. The height of the lever has to be set according to the tab height.</div> <div>Keith Roberts </div> <div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Sep 3, 2008 at 7:30 AM, David Love <<a href="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net">davidlovepianos@comcast.net</a>> wrote: <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid">All these things are good but if the pivot is too high why not just put on thicker key end felt?  Also, do you find that in moving the pivot pin forward to be on the same plane as the flange center that you often need to install a second tray spring? David Love <a href="mailto:davidlovepianos@comcast.net">davidlovepianos@comcast.net</a> <a href="http://www.davidlovepianos.com/" target="_blank">www.davidlovepianos.com</a> <div> <div></div> <div class="Wj3C7c"> -----Original Message----- From: <a href="mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org">caut-bounces@ptg.org</a> [mailto:<a href="mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org">caut-bounces@ptg.org</a>] On Behalf Of Jon Page Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 5:17 AM To: <a href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">caut@ptg.org</a> Subject: [CAUT] Renner back action When reworking the back action I am not concerned about the Magic Line. My concern lies with the elevation of the pivot, meaning that I want the key to lift the underlever parallel to the key bed. The slots worn in the key end felt are caused by the underlever being at too much of a downwards angle at rest. Meaning that the pivot is too high. This scrubbing is friction. Lifting beyond parallel is also counter productive because the underlever would scrub against the rear end of the lifter felt. I also move the pivot to be in line with the flange centers. Bearing in mind the fore and aft placement of the top flange. Recently, I chiseled off the end blocks on the tray and glued in a spacer underneath them to get a good area for the new pin location. That combined with replacing the pitman with a section of pedal rod made the pedal depression easier (was too hard). And now there is no discrepancy regarding the upstop rail between key lift and pedal lift. When installing new flanges and end blocks, hold a flange and block in place on a scrap piece of rail and tap the center with a hammer, this will index the tray pivot hole. For the support block holes, measure the top flange center distance from the belly rail. This is easily done on the bench. Measure the distance from the top flange center to the lever flange center. If the t/f/c is 6" and the center spread is 3.5", the new pivot is drilled 2.5" from the belly. This maintains the position of the t/f. And if the key lifts to 1 3/4", bottom of lever to flange center is 3/8", that makes the new pivot height 2 1/8".    So, 2.5" out, 2 1/8" up. Simple. It makes for a nicer feel to the touch. Sometimes I make new pivot support blocks but usually simply place a spacer behind them to get surface area for the new forward pin location. If the new location is too close to the old hole, I'll drill out a 1/4" plug from the lower corner of the block and plug the old hole (how's that for recycling). To ascertain to what degree, if any, dampers are scrubbing; measure the height of the end felt with the key depressed. Lift the underlever to that height and look at its angle with the keybed. If it is still at a downwards angle then it is not optimum. More angle means more friction. -- Regards, Jon Page </div></div></blockquote></div> </div>