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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>$850 bucks to replace wip cushions?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>ES</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=pwilliams4@unlnotes.unl.edu
href="mailto:pwilliams4@unlnotes.unl.edu">Paul T Williams</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=caut@ptg.org
href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">College and University Technicians</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, October 30, 2008 5:15
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [CAUT] S&S Key
Bushings</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>Yes, I do, after all is
dry....really dry! It really helps a great deal. I'm still new at
this VS Profelt, but it seems to be working quite well. If you have
really dented in wip cushions, though, I think it's too much to remedy.
I'll try anything once rather than another $850 bucks!! These were 80
years old however... on to another set of wips!!! :>)</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT
face=sans-serif size=2>Paul</FONT> <BR><BR><BR><BR>
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<TD width="40%"><FONT face=sans-serif size=1><B>Jim Busby
<jim_busby@byu.edu></B> </FONT><BR><FONT face=sans-serif
size=1>Sent by: caut-bounces@ptg.org</FONT>
<P><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>10/30/2008 02:35 PM</FONT>
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<DIV align=center><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Please respond
to<BR>College and University Technicians
<caut@ptg.org></FONT></DIV></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR></P>
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<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>To</FONT></DIV>
<TD><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>College and University
Technicians <caut@ptg.org></FONT>
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<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>cc</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Subject</FONT></DIV>
<TD><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Re: [CAUT] S&S Key
Bushings</FONT></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR>
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<TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR><BR><BR><TT><FONT
size=2>Thanks Fred,<BR><BR>I forgot about the Teflon in the bushings. Do you
do that very last?<BR><BR>Jim<BR><BR>-----Original Message-----<BR>From:
caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Fred
Sturm<BR>Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 12:31 PM<BR>To: College and
University Technicians<BR>Subject: Re: [CAUT] S&S Key Bushings<BR><BR>On
Oct 30, 2008, at 10:31 AM, Chris Solliday wrote:<BR><BR>> I would not
recommend using heat in general with sizing solutions<BR>> although<BR>>
some glues can take it and the heat may provide a quicker process<BR>>
overall.<BR><BR><BR>Hi Chris,<BR> Thanks for the
info about VS Profelt and its ingredients. I have<BR>ordered some, and will
see how it compares with my own "standard<BR>method" - which does use heat. I
agree that use of heat may cause<BR>problems if you aren't careful, but as
long as you are paying<BR>attention it can be done safely (a little
experimentation with one or<BR>two keys will reveal potential
problems).<BR> I posted about my method a few years
back, but maybe I should do a<BR>quick repeat. Briefly, keys off the frame, in
Spurlock clamps. Apply<BR>steam as if removing bushings, but only enough to
expand the felt<BR>(keep the travel steam iron moving, keep your eye on the
condition of<BR>the bushings). Follow immediately with heated caul
(temperature<BR>controlled). A very quick (half second or less) plunge into
each<BR>mortise to press the felt flat, followed by going back through the
set<BR>a little slower (up to one second). This both dries and irons/fits
the<BR>felt, and, in my usually dry climate, I can essentially put the
keys<BR>right back on the frame the same day (after doing other tasks
like<BR>brushing and lubing knuckles, scuffing hammer tails, etc). I
have<BR>found that one second of a caul in a mortise doesn't cause problems
of<BR>glue wicking into felt and the like.<BR>
Whatever we do to re-fluff the felt, I think lubrication is
really<BR>the key to longevity. All my keypins get McLube, all bushings
get<BR>powdered teflon. The difference in longevity is very obvious over
a<BR>period of years. Thanks to Newton Hunt for pushing that
point<BR>repeatedly. Polished, un-nicked, lubricated pins +
well-fit,<BR>lubricated, ironed bushings = nice feeling keyboard for a long
time,<BR>even with heavy wear. [Attention to fine detail = better results
in<BR>general.]<BR><BR>Regards,<BR>Fred Sturm<BR>University of New
Mexico<BR>fssturm@unm.edu<BR><BR><BR><BR></FONT></TT><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>