Yes, I do, after all is dry....really dry!  It really helps a great deal.  I'm still new at this VS Profelt, but it seems to be working quite well.  If you have really dented in wip cushions, though, I think it's too much to remedy.  I'll try anything once rather than another $850 bucks!! These were 80 years old however... on to another set of wips!!! :>) Paul <table width=100%> <tr valign=top> <td width=40%>Jim Busby <jim_busby@byu.edu> Sent by: caut-bounces@ptg.org 10/30/2008 02:35 PM <table border> <tr valign=top> <td bgcolor=white> <div align=center>Please respond to College and University Technicians <caut@ptg.org></div></table> <td width=59%> <table width=100%> <tr valign=top> <td> <div align=right>To</div> <td>College and University Technicians <caut@ptg.org> <tr valign=top> <td> <div align=right>cc</div> <td> <tr valign=top> <td> <div align=right>Subject</div> <td>Re: [CAUT] S&S Key Bushings</table> <table> <tr valign=top> <td> <td></table> </table> <tt>Thanks Fred, I forgot about the Teflon in the bushings. Do you do that very last? Jim -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf Of Fred Sturm Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 12:31 PM To: College and University Technicians Subject: Re: [CAUT] S&S Key Bushings On Oct 30, 2008, at 10:31 AM, Chris Solliday wrote: > I would not recommend using heat in general with sizing solutions > although > some glues can take it and the heat may provide a quicker process > overall. Hi Chris,        Thanks for the info about VS Profelt and its ingredients. I have ordered some, and will see how it compares with my own "standard method" - which does use heat. I agree that use of heat may cause problems if you aren't careful, but as long as you are paying attention it can be done safely  (a little experimentation with one or two keys will reveal potential problems).        I posted about my method a few years back, but maybe I should do a quick repeat. Briefly, keys off the frame, in Spurlock clamps. Apply steam as if removing bushings, but only enough to expand the felt (keep the travel steam iron moving, keep your eye on the condition of the bushings). Follow immediately with heated caul (temperature controlled). A very quick (half second or less) plunge into each mortise to press the felt flat, followed by going back through the set a little slower (up to one second). This both dries and irons/fits the felt, and, in my usually dry climate, I can essentially put the keys right back on the frame the same day (after doing other tasks like brushing and lubing knuckles, scuffing hammer tails, etc). I have found that one second of a caul in a mortise doesn't cause problems of glue wicking into felt and the like.        Whatever we do to re-fluff the felt, I think lubrication is really the key to longevity. All my keypins get McLube, all bushings get powdered teflon. The difference in longevity is very obvious over a period of years. Thanks to Newton Hunt for pushing that point repeatedly. Polished, un-nicked, lubricated pins + well-fit, lubricated, ironed bushings = nice feeling keyboard for a long time, even with heavy wear. [Attention to fine detail = better results in general.] Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico fssturm@unm.edu </tt>