<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:times new roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:12pt"><div></div><div>Jurgen's leather is calfskin; very good but 9mm wide, so I cannot use it on Herrberger Brooks keys, which require 7/16" (11mm) or the result is a crappy job.So check the width of the front bushing dadoes. I ended up getting deerskin from Michaels. It needed thinning, so I made a fixture for the drill press.It has superfine adjustment. I have an extremely sensitive owner and he could hear the original cloth bushings abrade on the pins. Over twenty years ago I changed one faulty front  bushing and used the Renner calfskin and it was much quieter. Of course, he wants this for the whole set. The note is in the high treble, and he noticed also that the key depressed from the tendency to side pressure more readily.</div><div> </div><div>Ted Sambell</div><blockquote style="padding-left: 5px; margin-left: 5px; border-left-color: rgb(16, 16, 255); border-left-width: 2px; border-left-style: solid;"><div style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif; font-size: 12pt;"><div style="font-family: times new roman, new york, times, serif; font-size: 12pt;"><div id="yiv1047801172"> Hi Alan,             I tho on the pinsthose pins were 0.135"? again I am going from my faded memory, in which case use 0.137 cauls.  Use hide hot glue, don't push the caul all the way in and use a razor  to trim flush with the top of the button.  Once trimmed push the caul down the extra 2 or 3 mm. You are correct about the glue and leather, very little wicking. When I have used the tan side to the pin, I've found it prone to squeaks. The leather last at least 5 times longer.  I still bush the front rail with cloth, it is quieter.  Because there is less key roll with leather BR bushings the FR seems to also last longer. We have converted most of our instruments to leather and are very pleased with the results. Level and dip appears more stable. We have not had to re bush any of the leather converts, and a number of these pianos were done 5 years ago. Expect a spirited discussion on tan in and tan out. The above is just my experience. Probably there is no right answer. I use a small artist brush to coat the nap in Teflon powder. It seems to stay put long enough for the nap to lay down. The leather/maple button seems to be more stable with humidity swings. Regards Roger At 01:59 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote: <blockquote class="yiv1047801172cite" cite="" type="cite">Hi Roger, Thanks for the input on key bushing with leather. Â Nap towards the pin, eh? Â Not what I would have guessed (but I have zero experience bushing keys with leather at the moment, so what do I know?). Â Do you use hot animal hide glue? Â Any special considerations (vs. bushing w/ cloth)?Â <dl> <dd>If my memory serves me correctly I use 1.1mm. </dd></dl>... which would be about .043". Â I suppose the appropriate thickness of leather depends, as with cloth, on the difference between the size of the mortise and the size of the key pins (less whatever needs to be figured in for the glue line--and I imagine that leather will be less absorbent of glue than cloth, particularly if the glue is applied to the tanned side of the leather). Have you found leather to last substantially longer than cloth? Â And as it starts to wear, is there a way to resuscitate it (like there is with cloth)? Many thanks, Alan Eder -----Original Message----- From: Roger Jolly <roger.j@sasktel.net> To: caut <caut@ptg.org> Sent: Mon, Aug 29, 2011 8:30 am Subject: Re: [CAUT] BÃƒÂ¶sendorfer question Hi Alan, Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  Get your leather from Jurgen at Piano Forte he sells it in several thicknesses, 0.1mm increments. I use it with the nap towards the pins, dusted with micro fine Teflon powder. No squeaky leather.Â  If my memory serves me correctly I use 1.1mm. Regards Roger At 12:00 PM 8/29/2011, you wrote: <blockquote class="yiv1047801172cite" cite="" type="cite">Hi Ted, <dl> <dd>I will be rebushing with leather. </dd></dl>I am about to rebush a set of keys with leather, a first-time experience for me. Ã‚ Any tips you would be willing to share? Thanks, Alan Eder -----Original Message----- From: Edward Sambell <<a href="mailto:esambell@yahoo.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" ymailto="mailto:esambell@yahoo.com">esambell@yahoo.com</a>> To: caut <<a href="mailto:caut@ptg.org" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" ymailto="mailto:caut@ptg.org">caut@ptg.org</a>> Sent: Sat, Aug 27, 2011 9:42 am Subject: Re: [CAUT] BÃƒÂ¶sendorfer question Stan, I have worked on many Bosendorfers and the keypin diameters were .135". In fact I am doing one now, and it too has .135" on both rails. I will be rebushing with leather. The keys are made by Herrberger Brooks (UK) but this size seems to be common with European pianos. Regards, Ted Sambell <dl> <dd>From: Stan Kroeker <<a rel="nofollow">smkroeker@shaw.ca</a>> </dd><dd>To: <a rel="nofollow">caut@ptg.org</a> <dd>Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 1:26:03 PM <dd>Subject: [CAUT] BÃƒÂ¶sendorfer question</dd><dd> <dd>Hello all, <dd>Have just received a set of BÃƒÂ¶sendorfer keys from a colleague for rebushing and am worried that the keypin diameters may not have been measured accurately.Ã‚Â  Is anyone able to share these specs? <dd>Best regards from the sun-baked Canadian prairie! <dd>Stan Kroeker, RPT </dd></dl></blockquote></blockquote> </div> </div></div></blockquote></div></body></html>