<html> Two things,     There's a "new" brad-point out called "Vortex", and it's a doozy. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get uncommon sizes. Woodworker's Supply has 'em. The one's I've got cut beautifully and have a "deeper" center point. <x-tab>        </x-tab>Also, Chris, I was wondering if you'd tell us what you do about rake when you find you want it different than the prior set? Thanks, Guy At 06:01 PM 7/16/2005 -0400, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:of= fice:office" xmlns:w = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word"> At this point I don't think I can add much to the discussion. Ed, Stan, and Cy have hit the nail on the head, well at least glued the shank to the head. I will mention that a knurler and scoring the shank are two different things. Personally I knurl for size and glue adherence and I open a hole in the molding for pressure release and all the good stuff Ed Sutton and Cy so eruditely clarified. Then I glue with Tite Bond Wood Molding Glue and wipe the excess off the top of the molding with a damp rag. My boring is slightly loose to accomodate in-the-piano installation alignment. BTW don't forget stike point adjustment with the action bolts. I dry fit (use paper shims in the hole if necessary) the treble hammers and adjust first and then check after gluing. It's the big one. I doubt that there is perceptible tonal variation with the "score the shank method" or that the shank integrity is interrupted to any significant degree if the technique is consistent, however, I just don't like that way because usually my shanks are already in the butts screwed to the rail and the risk of damaging the action center seems too great to me, and besides the little hole in the top of the molding works so well. Just MHO. Chris Solliday <dl> <dd>----- Original Message ----- <dd>From: <a href="mailto:tune4@earthlink.net">Paul Chick (Earthlink)</a> <dd>To: <a href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">'College and University Technicians'</a> <dd>Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2005 12:15 PM <dd>Subject: RE: [CAUT] vertical hammers <dd>  <dd>Subject: Re: [CAUT] vertical hammers <dd>  <dd>In a message dated 7/16/2005 10:26:45 AM Central Standard Time, <a href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</a> writes: <dd>I have seen, at a convention class, or the list, or the Guild magazine,= a <dd>gizmo for scoring the shank, to allow, trapped air to escape. <dd>I think it was a piece of wood, with a hole drilled in it, the size of= the <dd>shank, then it had a screw in it, where the point was into the hole. <dd>You just inserted the shank, and it was scored to the depth the point= was <dd>out. <dd>John M. Ross </dl>I inherited from my dad a shank knurler.= It is a disk with groves in it, that is attached to a crank. It has a= curved piece of metal parallel to the disk, that can be adjusted with a set= screw, to allow the distance between the disk and the curved metal piece to= vary. (for different shank sizes, or more or less knurling). You can attach= it to a bench with screws, or a clamp. He probably got it when he worked= for Stark.   I use it when I replace a whole set of shanks.= When I do just one, I use a pair of pliers, to gently knurl the shank.   Wim   I’ve been using a shank= knurler from Schaaf for about 25 years.  I think it’s still= available.  It’s adjusted to size the shanks to a uniform diameter= as well as knurl the shank.  When glue is applied (any water based= glue), the shanks swell back almost to their original diameter, making a= very nice fit without excessive glue squeeze out.   Paul C </blockquote></html>