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<DIV>I've always used <SPAN class=correction id="">ordinary</SPAN> carpenters <SPAN class=correction id="">Titebond</SPAN> <SPAN class=correction id="">glue</SPAN> for all my hammer hanging, including <SPAN class=correction id="">grands</SPAN>. </DIV>
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<DIV><SPAN class=correction id="">Wim</SPAN><BR>Willem <SPAN class=correction id="">Blees</SPAN>, <SPAN class=correction id="">RPT</SPAN><BR>Piano Tuner/Technician<BR>School of Music<BR>University of Alabama<BR>Tuscaloosa, <SPAN class=correction id="">AL</SPAN> USA</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV> <BR>-----Original Message-----<BR>From: John Ross <jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca><BR>To: College and University Technicians <<SPAN class=correction id="">caut</SPAN>@ptg.<SPAN class=correction id="">org</SPAN>><BR>Sent: Fri, 15 <SPAN class=correction id="">Jul</SPAN> 2005 10:55:46 -0300<BR>Subject: Re: [<SPAN class=correction id="">CAUT</SPAN>] vertical hammers<BR><BR>
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<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>For those that replace the hammers, in the piano. What glue do you use?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I have always used hide glue, which would be inconvenient to use in a customer's home.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
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<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A href="javascript:parent.ComposeTo('jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca');">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=dmckech@ithaca.edu href="javascript:parent.ComposeTo('dmckech@ithaca.edu');">Don <SPAN class=correction id="">McKechnie</SPAN></A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=caut@ptg.org href="javascript:parent.ComposeTo('caut@ptg.org');">caut</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, July 15, 2005 10:53 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: [CAUT] vertical hammers</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>A variation on this is to use 1/8" clear acrylic instead of plywood. Push the hammers up to the acrylic sheet and make your marks on the back side of the sheet. I believe I picked up this idea from Wally Brooks some years ago at a convention.<BR><BR>Don<BR><BR><BR><BR>
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<DIV class=headerdisplayname style="DISPLAY: inline">From: </DIV>"Ed Sutton" <A class=moz-txt-link-rfc2396E href="javascript:parent.ComposeTo('ed440@mindspring.com');"><<SPAN class=correction id="">ed440</SPAN>@mindspring.<SPAN class=correction id="">com</SPAN>></A></TD></TR>
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<DIV class=headerdisplayname style="DISPLAY: inline">Date: </DIV>Thu, 14 Jul 2005 16:04:28 -0400</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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<DIV class=headerdisplayname style="DISPLAY: inline">To: </DIV>"College and University Technicians" <A class=moz-txt-link-rfc2396E href="javascript:parent.ComposeTo('caut@ptg.org');"><caut@ptg.org></A></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR><PRE wrap="">It can be done well on the bench, thus:
-Note blow distance in the piano.
-Set up action on the bench in an action cradle.
-Attach bolts (about 1/4"<SPAN class=correction id="">x3</SPAN>") through the action bracket slots.
-Cut strips of plywood to approximate the string planes, bass and
tenor-treble.
-Drill holes to attach the plywood to the bolts, use nuts and washers to
mount the boards at the blow distance from hammer rest line.
-Put masking tape on the boards at strike point line.
-Press old hammers against a stamp pad, then press them against the masking
tape, printing an index of the string spacing and hammer spacing.
-Remove old hammers and replace as in piano.
-It is also possible to <SPAN class=correction id="">superglue</SPAN> a support shelf on the boards to assist
in maintaining hammer alignment.
-If you have lots of pianos of same model, save your index boards for
re-use.
Ed Sutton
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