<html> At 05:28 PM 05/09/2001 -0400, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite cite>Do you ever have any trouble with the front being chipped by the router bit?</blockquote> No, I start at the back of the key and let the bit trim the perimeter. With the vice at the fence I start the key on the back right side and ease my way up and around the front, down the other side and across the back, then remove stock from the center. A set can be done in less than 45 minutes.  The plastic butts right against the end of the notch for a clean appearance. If the tail length will allow a shorter piece, I'll trim off the embossed letters. The plastic is set on the key and a line is scribed on the key for fence setup. I use a plunge router bit which has a cutting edge on the bottom, I suppose an end milling bit would work if it also has cutters on the sides. The reason I prefer this method over the Oslund machine is the butt joint at the end of the tail. The circular kerf extending beyond the new top looks sloppy. Regards, Jon Page <blockquote type=cite cite><blockquote type=cite cite>At 01:36 PM 05/09/2001 -0500, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite cite>Does anyone know if there are still dedicated keytop machines available, such as the Oslo brand? Are they ever up for sale as used? I'm considering jigging up for keytops and would like to have a dedicated machine. John Minor University of Illinois</blockquote> For planing the tops, a plunge router bit in a drill press works well. The key is held in a drill press vice and passed under the bit. The front of the key is indexed in the vice and the vise hits a fence which keeps the notch straight across (not a half-circle saw kerf as an Oslund machine produces). Having a straight finish to the notch produces a nice onlay to the key with the plastic. Trimming can be done with a flush router bit and jig ala Bill Spurlock. I prefer to trim by hand with a file. Clamping is not necessary when you use PVC-E glue. Pianotech has a nice keytop, I like the off white.</blockquote></blockquote></html>