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<P>Also, I retro-fit pitmans all the time. Why the pin in=
the dowel? If you are drilling out a 3/4" by=
1/4" deep hole in the tray and lever for the new pitman,=
the glued on punching isn't going anywhere....</P>
<P>David I.</P>
<P> </P>
<DIV align=left> </DIV>
<DIV align=left>----- Original message=
----------------------------------------><BR>From: <<A=
href="mailto:Erwinspiano@aol.com">Erwinspiano@aol.com</A>><BR=
>To: <<A=
href="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>>,=
<<A=
href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">caut@ptg.org</A>><BR>Received:=
Sun, 7 Nov 2004 16:38:08 EST<BR>Subject: [CAUT] Re: Steinway=
Damper sytem upgrade & redesign</DIV>
<DIV align=left><BR>In a message dated 11/7/2004 10:06:39 AM=
Pacific Standard Time, Erwinspiano writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;=
BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR:=
transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=3>
<DIV><FONT size=3>List.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> I thought I'd share some more piano=
related stuff to clean out any potential political residue lefet=
over in anyones palate from last week as my penance for=
irritating some with My uncharacteristic share of dreaded=
political OTs post.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> </FONT></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;=
BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid">
<DIV><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial=
color=#000000 size=3><FONT size=3>I've been modifying many=
of old Steinway damper systems with a variety of features=
which greatly improves its functionability &=
adjustability.</FONT><FONT size=3> Many of these ideas are=
not my own but have found them useful just the=
same.<STRONG>grin.</STRONG> I've been installing the new Renner=
Back actions fairly routinely which gives a more effective=
sostenuto usage with the spring loaded tabs & also the fact=
that individual parts can be taken off for service if necessary=
without disassembling the whole dang damper action I.E. to=
reglue some flanges that have come unglued or repin a part or=
two.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Along with this=
I've also found that a few other modifications which are not=
difficult to execute also increase performance.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> ! Installing the tray center pivot pin so=
it is in line with the underlever centers. This requires=
modifying or making a new pivot block for at least one=
end.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Result. 1.This eliminates the disparity=
of function in the upstop adjustment. Meaning an upstop=
adjustment is made which is equally good for pedal lift as is it=
is for individual key lift.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> 2. the heavy pedal syndrome is made=
more normal by reducing weight & friction felt on the pedal=
& eliminates much of the damper thumping on the strings by=
less experienced players</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> 3. Eliminates the severe dipping of the=
underlevers when the tray is out of adjustment that digs out the=
key lift felt with extra friction caused by the out of=
adjustment.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> 4. removing wooden or brass pedal=
pitmans that (always) squeak. This requires drilling an=
enlarged hole thru the keybed 3/4" or so & installing a=
wooden dowel with 3/4" front punchings glued to each=
end & a balance rail pin installed and protruding=
3/16 inch out of the dowel. The tray & pedal=
lever are drilled to accommodate the felt & pin =
</FONT></FONT><FONT size=3> The result is a totally quiet=
squeak-free movement</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;=
BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR:=
transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=3>
<DIV><FONT size=3> 5. Install a new set of Modern adjustable=
pedal rods. What a blessing. See pianotek</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> 6. Install a capstan as a sustain=
pedal lever travel limiter on the bottom of the keybed. This=
removes the archaic block of felt method formerly employed on=
all Stwy pianos, & others of course & allows for a=
precise amount of damper lift& lever travel. A nice=
feature which keeps the underlevers from slamming into the=
upstop felt creating those annoying dents which reduce=
function.</FONT></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;=
BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid">
<DIV> 7. <FONT size=3>relocate tray return springs. In=
these pianos either a leaf spring type was used in the top=
treble end of the tray or in later models a coil spring was=
applied on the bass end of the tray causing the tray=
to warp.</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV> <FONT size=3>The new springs are fit=
between the lever sections. One is mounted close to the pitman=
which is where it needs to be to keep the tray from being=
twisted during lift,resulting in a strange array of damper=
lift setting problems & eventual tray warpage. Some systems=
require another mounted between bass and tenor=
sections.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> 8. The last thing which is new to me came=
about because of a conversation with David Love about this. Del=
had done a tray for him this way & I'd heard about others=
doing this so...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> I mounted small11/32inch=
long capstans under each underlever. This allows for a very=
precise & perfect damper lift without all the usual futzing=
and straining to move a lever in the flange just the tiniest=
fraction of a mm/or inch for standard folks.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> The lip of the tray needs to be=
thinned by about 3 mm to allow for capstan head clearance. A=
quick pass on the table saw does this in a second.=
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Drill the appropriate size hole for the=
capstan shank & press with arbor press or Tap in=
carefully with a hammer with the tray supported really=
well</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>8. Installing the extra wide bichord agraffes=
from Pianotek on the lowest 4 bichords increase the ability of=
the bichord felt to get between the large bichord bass=
strings which really improves damping.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> 9 On many pianos, especially longer ones=
I also find improved damping by using four equally cut pieces of=
damper felt in the mono- chord section & on the first 2 to 4=
bichord notes. This is especially helpful on longer strings=
& also on smaller pianos on which I have had all=
my mono chords double wrapped by the string maker.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> An Addendum.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Some later stwys , 1950 ish &=
later came <STRONG><U>without return springs</U></STRONG>. I've=
learned this the hard way, ( of course), that these need springs=
especially in the bass. This is my humble opinion based on=
failure to damp experience, even with proper fitted guide rail=
bushings & nicely fit wires, head lift etc.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> These upgraded systems are a huge=
improvement over the original equipment setup IMHO and are not=
difficult to do. It does increase labor time but it's worth=
it</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Hope this is food for thought and=
comment.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Dale Erwin</FONT></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang=0 face=Arial size=2 PTSIZE="10"=
FAMILY="SANSSERIF">Erwins Pianos Restorations <BR>4721 Parker=
Rd.<BR>Modesto, Ca 95357<BR>209-577-8397<BR>Rebuilt Steinway ,=
Mason &Hamlin=
Sales<BR>www.Erwinspiano.com</FONT></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>