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<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT =
color=#000080>Wim,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT color=#000080>Using the =
key pin to
help glue size isn't a good idea, as you have found. Using =
straight glue
is also not correct - it has to be thinned a LOT in order to get it to
penetrate. Finally, IMHO it is best to use the weak glue solution, =
then
let it dry laying on the workbench (off of the pin), then later ease the =
key to
fit.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT color=#000080>If the hole =
dimension
change required isn't too much, do this instead:</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT color=#000080>- Wet the =
key bottom
hole.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT color=#000080>- Apply hot =
iron
(soldering iron can be used) to create a quick flash of steam. =
Pssst - 1/2
second, that's all the contact you need.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT color=#000080>- Put the =
key on the
keyframe. If it is not tight going down, then steam it a second
time. If it still isn't tight, then it needs more extensive work =
(shimming
with veneer). The key hole should feel tight when you put it on =
the pin
wet.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT color=#000080>- Let dry =
overnight (or
a couple of days in the summer time maybe), then easy from above using =
the
tapered easer.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT color=#000080>Don
Mannino</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=758465916-27062005><FONT
color=#000080></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader lang=en-us dir=ltr =
align=left><FONT
face=Tahoma size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>
caut-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org] <B>On Behalf Of
</B>wimblees@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, June 27, 2005 9:33
AM<BR><B>To:</B> caut@ptg.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> [CAUT] glue
sizing<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Verdana'">
<DIV>
<DIV>Ok, you guys, help me out here. I should probably know this, =
but I'm
having trouble glue sizing my balance rail holes. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I put the glue in the hole, wipe off any excess, and then =
put the
key back on the balance rail. I wipe off the glue comes out the
top. After the glue dries, there are three problems. 1. the =
balance rail
punching is sometimes glued to the bottom of the key. That's an easy =
fix. 2.
The glue at the top of the pin dries to the bushing. When I remove the =
key,
sometimes the bushing come off and I have to rebush. 3. I have to =
clean the
glue off the balance rail. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>What am I doing wrong?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Wim</DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>