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<DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif">Dale-</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif">Yes, part of my plan was to grind down the hump.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif">Maybe renotch the bridge and put new pins in epoxy... this is getting expensive.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif">I understand Steinway has reduced the hump recently, and also gone to shorter tuning pins.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face="MS Sans Serif">Ed S.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=Erwinspiano@aol.com href="mailto:Erwinspiano@aol.com"></A></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To: </B><A title=caut@ptg.org href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">caut@ptg.org</A></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> 11/19/2004 9:24:30 AM </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [CAUT] Steinway Verticals </DIV>
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<DIV> <FONT size=3> Some of these pianos are really as you say difficult to tune & full of false beats. Stringing the piano & it's contribution to false beats id debatable. As careful as we've been about how the string comes off the spool and lays around the hitch pin we still end up with false beats. However in my experience a large contributing factor to them is over pulling the strings above pitch either accidentally or on purpose with the intended idea of pre stretching the strings. Do not do it. It often can happen accidentally by the rookie ear tuner who was given the job of pitching & inherently the treble is pulled too sharp. I this case the string can actually be pulled out of shape physically.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> I would try Ron N's suggestion from last year and tap each bridge pin further into the bridge thereby removing any notch in the bridge pin due to wear down and away from the string. I've tried this & it works often.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> As to restrining I'd say try a couple of the wost unison to start but making sure you do this in conjunction with a new & tight fitting bridge pin. See what happens.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> As for the tuning difficulty, Stwy puts a huge & un-necessary (ImO)counter bearing hump on the plate in the trebles sections. The last model S&S 45 I restrung this year I used a carbide cutter with a die grinder & greatly reduced the height o hump. If you string the entire piano I suggest you do this. Those humps increase friction enomously & to what benifit or reason, I ask?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> The rest is a mystery</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3> Dale</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>> Dear Boaz-<BR>><BR>> Perhaps you would share some of your painfully learned Steinway vertical<BR>> knowledge?<BR>><BR>> How do they manage to get so many false beats in such a little space?<BR>><BR>> Last week I tuned the most sadistic piano I know, a 4 year old 45<BR>vertical.<BR>> I'm the sixth technician to take it on, and the only one masochistic<BR>enough<BR>> to come back.<BR>><BR>> At least 2/3s of the treble strings are false beaters. Not 2/3s of the<BR>> unisons, 2/3s of the strings. Tapping at the bridge does not help. What<BR>> do they do to make these strings do this?<BR>><BR>> I am considering proposing to restring the top 2 sections, but hesitate<BR>> because I'm not sure it will make any difference.<BR>><BR>> Is there something odd in the way they string these pianos, somehow<BR>> twisting the strings?<BR>><BR>> The bass strings are also starting to beat.<BR>><BR>> Any thoughts you have would be most appreciated. Ditto evereybody else.<BR>><BR>> Thank you.<BR>><BR>> Ed Sutton</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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