<HTML><HEAD><TITLE>Re: [CAUT] Re: Steinway Damper sytem upgrade &=
redesign</TITLE></HEAD>
<BODY>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana>Fred, </FONT></P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana>My apologies to=
Joe...;-] </FONT></P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana>Yeah, but I can permanently fix=
the problem and certainly get more friction relief than your=
method AND I can charge $150 for the work...;-] =
</FONT></P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana>The job usually takes less than=
an hour for me. I charge $100 if I'm there tuning=
the piano. I make up numerous pitmans of slightly=
vairing length in the shop. I can also=
shim with shoe leather under the lever if necessary.=
I use a Forstner bit and it is a bit of a struggle to get=
it started. The dowel in the hole is a good idea and=
believe or not I haven't been using it...I press the drill up=
and with a little chattering get it started...yeah it makes a=
few marks near the hole. Block of wood on top for a=
clean hole. I don't have to pull the lyre...which on a=
Steinway is a little of a pain to re-install. I=
drill right into the leather under the tray and in the=
lever...3/4" forstner. It gives me a clear idea of=
where the dowel should go...graphited depression. Then the=
leather comes off. </FONT><FONT face=Verdana>I put a drop=
cloth down under the piano so the plush carpet doesn't=
complain...not to mention graphite powder on the=
carpet. </FONT></P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana>I've got a kit to do the job and=
I don't even think about...as I said before, I've never=
had a customer concern about drilling the existing hole=
bigger. Don't your customers worry about your drilling a=
hole in the tray and lever? Or don't you mention=
that?...;-]</FONT></P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana>David I.</FONT></P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana></FONT> </P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana></FONT> </P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana></FONT> </P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana>David "loves to eat sawdust"=
Ilvedson</FONT></P>
<P align=left> </P>
<P align=left> <FONT face=Verdana>----- Original=
message ----------------------------------------><BR>From:=
Fred Sturm <<A=
href="mailto:fssturm@unm.edu">fssturm@unm.edu</A>><BR>To: "<A=
href="mailto:ilvey@sbcglobal.net">ilvey@sbcglobal.net</A>,=
College and University Technicians" <<A=
href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">caut@ptg.org</A>><BR>Received:=
Mon, 08 Nov 2004 13:24:36 -0700<BR>Subject: Re: [CAUT] Re:=
Steinway Damper sytem upgrade & redesign</FONT></P>
<P align=left><FONT face=Verdana><BR>On 11/8/04 12:54 PM, "David=
Ilvedson" <ilvey@sbcglobal.net> wrote:<BR><BR></P></FONT>
<BLOCKQUOTE><FONT face=Verdana>Joe,<BR><BR>If you are not having=
any noise over the long term, hey sounds good. The=
whole idea is to eliminate the rubbing of the top and bottom of=
the pitman against the tray and lever. I still visulize=
rubbing in your retro-fit. The punching works=
similar to the Baldwin setup and eliminates any rubbing.=
I've never had a customer mention any concern with=
the hole in the bottom of the piano, but I think if they were to=
take a look under the piano they might just see some other holes=
already there and the piano seems to be OK...;-]=
<BR><BR>I take it your removing the bushing cloth in=
the original hole? Never having any clearance=
problems? I will admit drilling under the piano is a=
pain with sawdust in the face...<BR><BR>David=
Ilvedson<BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT face=Verdana><BR>Actually,=
it’s Fred, not Joe <g>. Yes, I remove the bushing cloth=
for more clearance. Sawdust on the face goes together with=
sawdust on the dark green plush carpet, the noise of drilling=
into the prized possession – people have these emotional=
connections, and you have to respect them.. And there’s a good=
bit of extra work to the “Scott Jones design retrofit”: find a=
way to center the larger bit (sometimes you can finesse a=
Forstner, but for safety’s sake you need to install a piece of=
dowel in the hole as a centering devise, and drill it out along=
with the extra keybed wood); remove leather and drill shallow=
holes in trapwork underlever and bottom of tray. Lot’s more=
sawdust and time than bringing a prepared substitute pitman,=
removing the bushing cloth, drilling a hole through the tray=
leather into the tray and similarly into the trap lever,=
and installing the pitman. It can even be done without removing=
the action. 10 - 15 minute job (plus a similar amount of=
shop time cutting the rod and drilling and pinning it, including=
set up and put away).<BR> I do prefer the=
Scott Jones design (I think he was the one who came up with it=
when he was in R & D at S & S), so if I’ve got the piano=
apart for another reason I’ll do that. But for someone=
complaining of too heavy a pedal, or where pitman rubbing is=
causing excess noise, and where time and effort are at a=
premium, my method is fast, effective, and=
long-lasting.<BR> You do have to fudge=
the placement of the pinned pitman toward front or back to avoid=
rubbing (I forget which – I’d need to be under a piano to=
visualize it, I’m thinking back), but there’s plenty of room.=
There’s no rubbing except for the pins at the end of the pitman=
in the holes (which need to be a bit oversized for the purpose).=
Hey, it’s the same design Yamaha and much of the rest of the=
world uses.<BR>Regards,<BR>Fred Sturm<BR>University of New=
Mexico<BR><FONT=
color=#0000ff><U>http://music.unm.edu/about/staff_members/fred_s=
_sturm.php<BR></U></FONT>"There is more to life than increasing=
its speed." Gandhi <BR><BR></FONT></BODY></HTML>