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<DIV>In a message dated 3/20/05 8:46:08 P.M. Central Standard Time,
roger.j@sasktel.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><=
FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=
=3>Some
suggestions that may be helpful to you.<BR><BR>I have added Dag screws to =
the
D's I look after. It makes voicing a lot easier I can quickly push the act=
ion
into position, and not have to worry about cheek blocks and the sustenuto =
rod
giving problems. After voicing, I back the screws inwards a quarter of a
turn.<BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV>I drew a line on the keybed where the action is supposed to be, so I do=
n't
have to keep putting the cheek blocks in. </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><=
FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000 size=
=3><BR>I
have a couple of pieces of laminated card, so I can depress the pedal, and=
slip it at the bass end of the action. This will give an accurate ha=
lf
pedal position, makes it easy to get consistent voicing in this
position. The thickness of the card is half the thickness of the Agr=
affe
holes.<BR><BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>This is fine if you only want to do half pedal, or all the way. But thi=
s
professor wants it at 100 different position, (or at least as many as possib=
le)
That is why I drew a mark on the keyframe, and then three marks on the
keybed. This allows me about 5 different positions. But I found t=
hat
even that doesn't do the job. I wound up doing what one of you suggested, (I=
can't remember who), and that is to do a slow shift on each key, playing the=
note constantly. It brings out even the smallest imperfection. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Wim </DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>