<HTML><BODY style="word-wrap: break-word; -khtml-nbsp-mode: space; =
-khtml-line-break: after-white-space; ">If the hammer flanges have the =
butt plates with screws in the back, you can remove the hammer rail and =
each hammer at the butt plate, leaving the flanges on the rail. This =
saves some time having to realign and/or travel the hammers =
afterwards.<DIV><BR class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV><DIV>If =
there are no butt plates, I've done either of the =
following:</DIV><DIV>1. replace the flanges</DIV><DIV>2. just remove =
the hammer and flange, unpin the parts, repair the cord and and repin. =
Then reinstall.</DIV><DIV><BR =
class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV><DIV>I've tried both ways and =
found it to be almost a tossup as far as time goes. New flanges means =
hoping the flanges are of good quality and will not have to be =
excessively traveled. On the piano I replaced flanges, I had problems =
with the flanges clearing each other in the high treble. The new parts =
may have been slightly wider than the old, and the flanges were more =
snug against each other than I would have liked. Don't count on the =
centerpin supplied to work, as they may not match the birdseye on the =
hammer butt, requiring more work. So be sure you have a good supply of =
centerpins. If I had to do the job again, I would go with the old parts, =
since cutting the cord with Yamaha's cord kit is a snap.</DIV><DIV><BR =
class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV><DIV><BR =
class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV><DIV>Sincerely,</DIV><DIV>Gary =
Mushlin, RPT</DIV><DIV><BR =
class="khtml-block-placeholder"></DIV><DIV><BR><DIV><DIV>On Feb 18, =
2006, at 8:57 AM, <A =
href="mailto:reggaepass@aol.com">reggaepass@aol.com</A> =
wrote:</DIV><BR class="Apple-interchange-newline"><BLOCKQUOTE =
type="cite"><DIV style="font-family: "Verdana"; font-size: =
10pt;"><DIV>Hi All,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>This Monday I will replace =
all of the hammer <SPAN class="correction" id="">return</SPAN> =
spring slings on an older Yamaha <SPAN class="correction" =
id="">U3</SPAN>. Yamaha graciously provided the cord =
material. Someone advised removing all of the dampers and leaving =
the hammers on for the operation. However, looks to me like it would =
be rather tricky to get the glue and the right length of cord in the =
right place in the hammer flange slots with the hammers still on the =
rail. My current plan is to leave the dampers, but remove all of the =
hammers so they may be handled individually.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> =
<DIV>Anybody out there worked through this to their satisfaction? Got =
a solvent that works better than alcohol for loosening up the old glue? =
For installing the new cords, have you used CA, hide glue, =
what-have-you? </DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Any and all input is =
welcome, all the <SPAN class="correction" id="">more so</SPAN> if it =
is before Monday morning.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Have a good =
weekend,</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Alan <SPAN class="correction" =
id="">Eder, =
RPT</SPAN></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>=