<html> Jim,    That one happens to be the one you use with the right-angle attachment of a Rotozip tool. Noisy but very handy for field (or convention) work. That one tool gives you a bunch of options when you don't wanna ship or schlep extra stuff. It's like a Dremel on steroids.The wheels have holes in them that allow you to actually see the work quite well, as you create buckets of sawdust. It may have been a 60 grit. It's also a bit smaller in diameter, so it will wear out a little sooner. (like--- 20 sets of tails instead of 30... big deal) Wear your safety glasses, Later, Guy At 05:41 PM 2/19/2004 -0700, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Guy,   I saw you do this at a convention (Reno?) and was quite impressed. But you used a special sanding disc you could see through . What was that and where do you get them? Thanks   Jim Busby BYU -----Original Message----- From: caut-bounces@ptg.org [<a href="mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org" eudora="autourl">mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org</a>] On Behalf Of Nichols Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 5:31 PM To: College and University Technicians Subject: Re: sawing off hammershank tails   Wim,    I take off the shank bits at the same time I shape the tails. I clamp up a section of hammers with a standard sandwich clamp, and grind off the bits with a right-angle grinder fitted with a couple of thicknesses of 50 grit wheels. 41/2 to 6 inch dia.. I prefer the air tool variety, but a 19.99 Harbor Freight grinder will work. Air gives you a lot more control, and runs a bit quieter. Come by the rebuilding skills class at Annual for a demo. I learned it from Jamie Marks and have been using it for years. After taking off the bits I shape the tails, and the 50 grit leaves the wood just right for positive checking without tearing up the leather. No checkering file needed. I often reshape existing tails for the heck of it now, because it's about 10 minutes to make a huge difference on some of the older, angled-and-mangled imports. Later, Guiy </blockquote></html>