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Hi Marcel.<br>
A brad pointed drill bit will do the job just fine. Works well for
me.<br>
Regards Roger.<br><br>
<br>
At 09:14 AM 7/16/2005, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite="">Cy,<br><br>
I think the hole should be bored at the center of the incoming
shank.<br>
The idea is that when using the original shanks you want to avoid<br>
having glue buildup inside the hammer. When this happens, it is<br>
difficult to have a nice hammer line because you could position the<br>
hammer and then the glue pressure would push it back upward. We only<br>
want to let that pressure out so the excess glue gets out.<br><br>
Marcel Carey, RPT<br>
Sherbrooke, QC<br><br>
> -----Original Message-----<br>
> From: caut-bounces@ptg.org
[<a href="mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org" eudora="autourl">
mailto:caut-bounces@ptg.org</a>]On<br>
> Behalf Of Cy<br>
> Shuster<br>
> Sent: July 16, 2005 8:44 AM<br>
> To: College and University Technicians<br>
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] vertical hammers<br>
><br>
><br>
> Chris,<br>
><br>
> Where exactly would you drill a hole in the hammer molding?<br>
> At an angle to<br>
> the shank, intersecting the hole bored for the shank?<br>
><br>
> Secondly, if the glue is good enough to bond the hammer to<br>
> the shank, isn't<br>
> it equally as good in filling any other gap between them,<br>
> whether it be<br>
> scored in the shank or drilled through the molding? (Hmm,<br>
> I guess the<br>
> hammer-to-shank connection is pretty important, now that I<br>
> say this out<br>
> loud...)<br>
><br>
> --Cy Shuster--<br>
> Bluefield, WV<br>
><br>
> ----- Original Message -----<br>
> From: "Chris Solliday" <solliday@ptd.net><br>
> To: "College and University Technicians"
<caut@ptg.org><br>
> Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 2:15 AM<br>
> Subject: Re: [CAUT] vertical hammers<br>
><br>
><br>
> >I do not agree that cutting the shank is a good idea. It<br>
> may get the glue<br>
> > out and keep your molding clean (that's what I have a<br>
> damp rag for) but it<br>
> > will affect the integrity of the shank and the tone. But<br>
> I guess in the<br>
> > scheme of things upright it does seem like small<br>
> potatoes. Chris Solliday<br>
> > ----- Original Message -----<br>
> > From: "Stan Kroeker"
<stan@pianoexperts.mb.ca><br>
> > To: "College and University Technicians"
<caut@ptg.org><br>
> > Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 7:54 PM<br>
> > Subject: Re: [CAUT] vertical hammers<br>
> ><br>
> ><br>
> >> Rather than poke a hole in the hammer, consider making
a<br>
> simple tool to<br>
> >> carve a little slot in the shank for glue escapement.<br>
> Easy to make,<br>
> >> fast to do and keeps your nice hammer mouldings clean.<br>
> >><br>
> >> Enjoy the weekend, all!<br>
> >><br>
> >> Stan Kroeker, RPT<br>
> >><br>
> >> Chris Solliday wrote:<br>
> >> > Tight Bond Molding Glue available at some home
centers<br>
> or Pianotek. It<br>
> >> > doesn't drip. Don't forget to drill or poke an
escape<br>
> hole through<br>
> >> > the top of the hammer molding. Chris Solliday<br>
> >><br>
> >> _______________________________________________<br>
> >> caut list info:
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> >><br>
> >><br>
> ><br>
> ><br>
> > _______________________________________________<br>
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> ><br>
> ><br>
> ><br>
><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
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