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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Tight Bond Molding Glue available at =
some home
centers or Pianotek. It doesn't drip. Don't forget to drill or poke =
an
escape hole through the top of the hammer molding. Chris
Solliday</FONT></DIV>
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style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca =
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">John
Ross</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=caut@ptg.org
href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">College and University Technicians</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, July 15, 2005 =
9:55 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [CAUT] vertical
hammers</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>For those that replace the hammers, in =
the
piano. What glue do you use?</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT face=Arial>I have always used hide glue, which =
would be
inconvenient to use in a customer's home.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>John M. Ross<BR>Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR><A
=
href="mailto:jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca">jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca</A></DIV>=
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=dmckech@ithaca.edu href="mailto:dmckech@ithaca.edu">Don =
McKechnie</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=caut@ptg.org
href="mailto:caut@ptg.org">caut</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, July 15, 2005 =
10:53
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: [CAUT] vertical
hammers</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>A variation on this is to use 1/8" clear acrylic =
instead of
plywood. Push the hammers up to the acrylic sheet and make your =
marks on the
back side of the sheet. I believe I picked up this idea from Wally =
Brooks
some years ago at a convention.<BR><BR>Don<BR><BR><BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">
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width="100%"
border=0>
<TBODY>
<TR>
<TD>
<DIV class=headerdisplayname style="DISPLAY: =
inline">Subject:
</DIV>RE: [CAUT] vertical hammers</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>
<DIV class=headerdisplayname style="DISPLAY: =
inline">From: </DIV>"Ed
Sutton" <A class=moz-txt-link-rfc2396E
=
href="mailto:ed440@mindspring.com"><ed440@mindspring.com></A></TD=
></TR>
<TR>
<TD>
<DIV class=headerdisplayname style="DISPLAY: =
inline">Date:
</DIV>Thu, 14 Jul 2005 16:04:28 =
-0400</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE class=header-part2 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 =
width="100%"
border=0>
<TBODY>
<TR>
<TD>
<DIV class=headerdisplayname style="DISPLAY: inline">To: =
</DIV>"College and University Technicians" <A
class=moz-txt-link-rfc2396E
=
href="mailto:caut@ptg.org"><caut@ptg.org></A></TD></TR></TBODY></=
TABLE><BR><PRE wrap="">It can be done well on the bench, thus:
-Note blow distance in the piano.
-Set up action on the bench in an action cradle.
-Attach bolts (about 1/4"x3") through the action bracket slots.
-Cut strips of plywood to approximate the string planes, bass and
tenor-treble.
-Drill holes to attach the plywood to the bolts, use nuts and washers to
mount the boards at the blow distance from hammer rest line.
-Put masking tape on the boards at strike point line.
-Press old hammers against a stamp pad, then press them against the =
masking
tape, printing an index of the string spacing and hammer spacing.
-Remove old hammers and replace as in piano.
-It is also possible to superglue a support shelf on the boards to =
assist
in maintaining hammer alignment.
-If you have lots of pianos of same model, save your index boards for
re-use.
Ed Sutton
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