<html> <body> At 01:39 PM 9/28/2004, you wrote: <blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>In a message dated 9/28/04 3:23:11 PM Central Daylight Time, amccoy@mail.ewu.edu writes: <dl> <dd>Also the beast is missing all four legs. Anyone out there have a set of four <dd>legs that need to be reunited with our friendly Rhodes beast? Will pay for <dd>legs. <dd>Thanks. <dd>Alan "Lurkster" McCoy </dl>You're really asking for some memory flash backs, aren't you?   I can't help you with the pinning, but If I recall, weren't these ordinary table legs that screwed into the bottom, with bolts and plates that can be found in most hardware stores. </blockquote> Depends on the model.  Some had the screw-in type legs, others were designed to work only with the speaker/amp box on which they sat, others had other configurations. The pinning thing can be a nightmare, especially if one forgets that this is not a real piano and tries to apply real piano specs. to things.  I'd suggest not pinning anything any tighter than necessary to keep the parts from reasonably squarely hitting the tines...both as to front - back as well as side-to-side.  Odd variations in this will affect the perception of pitch from the tines.  Also, work to keep the pickup coils an even distance from the tines.  These things were assembled with electronic-grade (not computer-grade) copper wire and solder.  So, along with your 15 watt soldering iron, take along some thin solder, small side cutters, and plastic electrical tape (the brown Revere 77 stuff from 3M works well).  Also very handy, should you need to do any real soldering, is to pick up some solder-wick - this is a metal woven mesh sold in varying widths and lengths which wicks molten solder away from a joint.  Take the fuses out before soldering, and you will run less risk of blowing one. Many times, slop in the action of these things have as much to do with really poor key bushings as anything else.... Well...that's a place from which to start. Best. Horace </body> </html>