<html> <body> List, Since the subject has come up again, below are some posts I've saved from previous discussions on this subject. Hope they will be of use to some of you. I'm a little late because I was waiting on permission from the various techs but have only gotten two replies, so I'll post anyway and hope the others don't mind. Avery Todd University of Houston Houston, TX ========================================================= Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 12:27:07 -0500 (EST) From: "Christopher D. Purdy" <purdy@oak.cats.ohiou.edu> Subject: Re: prepared piano Policy Regarding Prepared Piano Use March 23, 1999 1.  All structural changes to any piano must be approved by and in most cases performed by the piano technician. This includes removing the lid or other case parts and attaching anything to strings or soundboard to modify the sound. 2. Marking strings. Small stickers may be used on dampers or agraffes to mark notes. Please purchase stickers that are easy to remove such as the small colored dots. Care must always be used when touching dampers as they are easily bent. Never use masking tape or any other adhesive that may leave a residue. The performer is responsible for removing any stickers immediately after any performance. There should be nothing applied directly to the strings. This includes white-out, tape, stickers, nail polish, etc. In some cases chalk may be used to mark steel strings but never the copper wound bass strings. 3. Striking and plucking strings. Strings may be struck or plucked with fingers or guitar pick. Other devices must always be a material that will not mar or scratch strings. On steel strings only materials that are softer than the steel string may be used, such as brass or aluminum. Copper wound bass strings must also be struck or plucked with a material softer than the copper. Acceptable material include wood, plastic, rubber, etc. Never use a steel chisel on piano strings. As the piano technician, I will be happy to help any performer select materials that will not damage the piano. In some cases, literature calls for the insertion of screws or mutes between piano strings. Again, a material softer than the string must be used, such as brass or aluminum. 4. Extreme volume. There is a fine line to be drawn between passionate musical expression and outright banging on a piano. Please use good judgment when playing above a forte. Harsh playing is damaging and will not be tolerated. 5. Common sense. Most damage to our pianos can easily be avoided by using good judgment. Please consult with the piano technician or piano faculty before using unconventional techniques. Usually an alternative can be found to satisfy both the performer and this policy. -Christopher D. Purdy R.P.T.   School of Music  Ohio University  Athens OH              -purdy@oak.cats.ohiou.edu   (740) 593-1656    fax# (740) 593-1429 ======================================================== From: Rick Florence <Rick.Florence@ASU.Edu> Subject: Re: Crumbling pianos? We've had BAD luck with any sort of solvent (including alcohol) and bass strings - it will either discolor, cause loose windings, or both.  For node points, we instruct our students and faculty to use the dry erase markers on the plain wire and to tie colored yarn on the wound strings.  The markers clean off easily and the yarn stays put, is easy to locate, doesn't effect the sound at all, and comes right off.  (Tie on one sting of a unison - I had to explain to one student why the note sounded funny after she tied two bi-chord strings together tightly - DUH!) For marking dampers, we have found that the post-it flags work the best and leave the least residue. BTW we have three pianos on which we allow preparations.  Everything else is off limits.  Our faculty is very supportive. Rick ============================================================== From: "Fred S. Sturm" <fssturm@unm.edu> Subject: Re: Crumbling pianos? One thing you should tell the music director is that Crumb wrote at the piano in his office, which was a Steinway L, I believe. Hence, his inside the piano moves are designed with that geometry in mind - where the struts are, for example. Much of what he wrote doesn't work well on a 9 foot concert grand. Trying to reach the correct nodes on strings can be impossible on such a long instrument as well. So a model L (or maybe M) Steinway, Yamaha C-2, or similar, might work better for them.     I have used Post-its for marking nodes - just a very small strip from the stick part, fished through and around the string. Doesn't seem to have much effect on the sound of the string, and leaves no perceptible residue. Regards, Fred Sturm University of New Mexico ======================================================== From: "Wolfley, Eric (WOLFLEEL)" <WOLFLEEL@UCMAIL.UC.EDU> Subject: RE: Crumbling pianos? We have been using "dry erase" markers here - the kind they use on the "white boards" in the classroom. The marks they leave don't rub off when touched but will come right off with solvent (I use "goof off" brand spot remover). Chalk rubs off immediately and the constant re-application tends to leave piles of chalk "crumbs" on the soundboard. Tape will dampen the string and leave bad residue which will have to be removed with solvent anyway. I don't know about crayon....might be hard to get off. Any marks made on bass strings must be carefully kept from getting into the cracks between windings....just gently mark the outer edge of the windings. Give the pianist a soft cotton cloth to (carefully) wipe off the strings where (s)he touches them immediately after the performance. Take the time to remove the marks yourself - that way you know it will get done well! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Eric Wolfley Head Piano Technician Cincinnati College-Conservatory of Music University of Cincinnati ================================================ Use the waverley dots.   Come in different sizes and colors.  They leave no residue and don't cause buzzing on the strings. Easy to pull off agraffes and dampers.   We marked and dedicated one piano with white pin stripes on the dampers of the sharp keys.   Using different colors for two sharp group and the three sharp group.  It's hard to distinguish if there isn't this easy marking.     The dots are great for marking nodes.  They also work in bass strings. DEFINITELY no chalk, white out, crayon, masking tape, dry markers, because no matter how lightly you put these on the strings, performers always need more and heavier marking .     Anecdote:  In my early days I painted the dampers white and left the sharps black.  Took hours to make it easy to see.  Performer came in and immediately wrote C D E  etc.  on the white dampers.  Oh, well.     Do you have  the William Bunger book.  There was a class in Arlington about interior performance.  Right now I don't remember the instructor, but she had a great hand-out.  If you need more info I'll do some searching.     Keep in tune. Joel ========================================================== From: Robert Moffatt <moffatt5@telus.net> Subject: Re: Crumbling pianos? Putting anything on the strings is not a wise thing to do....particularly, the bass strings. On the prepared pianos I have attended to, placing the little round coloured self adhesive markers on the appropriate damper - agraffe - capo bar works just fine. If you have to use a solvent to remove any residue ( I haven't yet ), the only worry is accidentally getting it on the odd string....let alone actually applying it (?) to a bass string.   Sincerely,   Bob   Moffatt & Sons Piano Atelier Calgary, Alberta - Canada </body> </html>