One thought on that split and warped bridge: (I have seen similar on a 9' "concert grand" Sammick in the midwest on a college campus). The degree of "warp" may look different after stress is relieved. You may want to drop the pitch overall an octave before removing every string in the cracked section of the bridge, then reevaluate. At any rate as long as you still have the kind of bearing you'd like to see both front and back the epoxee will just fill and stabilize whatever movement has occurred. If bearing is a problem because of the bridge twist, check for the soundboard having moved with the bridge (or not) and then replane tilted surface to get some positive bearing both front and back before re-inserting bridge pins. Hmm -- if there's a lot of lateral gap from this crack you might need to realign a few of the bridge pins so you still have equal side bearing fore and aft of the bridge, which would reduce the tendencey of the bridge to want to roll and pull in the future... Just speaking as an armchair rebuilder, done some bridge repairs but nothing major like this one. Good luck! Audrey K. in Seattle
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