Gorden Large writes: >I'm replacing a block on a small, 1915 Chickering Grand. (There are two >blocks, actually.) The flange on the plate is bi-level. This is kind of a >pain, but what's worse is that there are two posts cast in the plate in the >treble web. (The blocks are bolted to the plate from underneath) The treble >block has to be drilled to fit over these posts, but I can't drill them to >the exact size of the posts because that would put them out of position by >the time I got the blasted thing fitted. So I have to drill them oversize so >the block doesn't touch them before it's fitted to the flange. I do not normaly use epoxy resin for fitting blocks (in fact I hate epoxy), but last time I replaced one of these Chickering blocks I used it. Just get the blocks fit close with the post holes oversize, with the plate upside down, spray a release agent on the plate, clamp the blocks to the plate and flow the resin into the flange/block area and also around the treble posts. (If your post holes are not drilled through the block, consider drilling a small hole through so you can introduce the resin while the block is clamped in position. It *is* a mess but works well. >I'd also like to know what kinds of concoctions people use on the plate >flanges to mark the high spots on the block. (I'm using an alcohol and >graphite mix. It works, but sure makes a mess) I use blue carpenters (or contractors) chaulk. Comes powdered or in stick form. I just use it dry. Scott Scott E. Thile, RPT Piano-Instrument Technician Department of Music,Murray State University ------------------------------------------------------------------ P.O. Box 9, Murray, KY 42071, Ph: 502-762-4396 Email: sethile@msumusik.mursuky.edu
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