Randy et al. The easiest way to find out if the milkiness is on the surface (IMHO, all the polyester satin finishes that I have seen have looked milky to me) or in the body of the finish is to buff up a section of a small part (cheekblock, keyslip etc. (The reason being it is easier to restore a small section on a small part to look 'factory' than a section of,say, the top !-))). If the milkiness goes away, its the surface (Rerub the piano time). If it doesn't, it's the finish (Strip the piano time). It could also be either in the sealer coat (still strip the piano time) or be caused by finish separation (again, strip the piano time). Polyester CAN be stripped. There are 2 methods that I know, only 1 (usually) is really usable for stripping pianos. Polyester is gelcoat (yep, the same stuff that's on the outside of your fiberglass fishin' boat). It is a thermoset. I'm digressing. Backing up. The trick with stripping polyester is not to try to strip the topcoat, but to get at the SEALER coat which is eminanntly strippable. One method is to score or sand the finish (if it hasn't already cracked (<G>)) carefully in several places down to the sealer coat. Apply Methylene Chloride (paint remover) and watch the show (might take several applications!). The other method is to use a heat gun to force the polyester into frisability, the drawback being that the temperature needed to do a number on the polyester usually greatly exceeds the breakdown temperature of the veneer adhesives usually resulting in severe veneer loss. The only other alternative (if it doesn't fall under warranty) that I see is to scuff it down with 100 grit, spray a couple of coats of black polyester, and rub it out. This sort of cancels out the reason for a clear finish, however. Any questions, squirt me a message Gabriel Zwierski 75120.1363@Compuserve.com
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