Replaced Keytops - How Long Should They Stick?

[Travis Gordy]

Dear Larry:

I hate to tell you this, but my first key replacement job, about 15 are
20 years ago, was with contact cement.  They lasted a few years, I
think.  They began coming off one or two at a time, and some while I was
tuning.  This was a reproducing player grand, seldom played by hand.
Well anyway, I quit using contact cement and began using Duco cement;
the one in the green tube also known as airplane cement.  Have had good
results.  Just did a set last week.

I use covers from Schaff, part numbers 1391, or 1396.  Unless the
original fronts look really nice I use the tops with fronts hoping a
glued down front will help them stay put.  I know Schaff says, in their
catalog, to use contact cement, but I have had success with Duco and
like it. You just have to be extremely careful not to get any of the
cement on top the top.  Duco dissolves the plastic instantly.  That's
why it does a good job of binding the top to the wood. I run a bead of
glue down the center of the key and put a dab on the front, then with
left hand put the cover in place being careful to touch only the edges
of the key with left hand fingers just in case glue comes out the edge,
and then run right hand forefinger down the center of the cover too
press it down good against the wood, being careful all the time that the
right hand fingers never touch any glue. The covers from Schaff are nice
and flat so hydraulic forces hold the cover in place and no clamps are
necessary.  If you should find one slightly curved you can use a couple
of rubber bands as clamps.  Ignore any glue that may oose out the sides.
 It will file off when you shape. Try not to use enough glue to oose. If
you do get a little smear of glue on a cover don't do anything about it
until it drys.  You can buff it out.  I generally glue one day and shape
the next, but you could probably shape a couple of hours after gluing.

It is entirely possible you will get better information from someone
else.  I hope so because I am sure open to a better way. I have a
question about preparing the keys for new, thicker, fronts.  I'll put
that on the list in the next day or two.  Its too late tonight.

Good luck, and I hope your contact cement job holds forever.  If some do
come loose stick them back down with Duco cement after you remove all
the contact cement you can.  That's what I did.

Larry Goss wrote:
> Dear pianotechies,
>
> I just delivered and installed my first keytop replacement Friday.  As
> coincidence would have it, my customer had a friend over who complained that
> she had a set replaced on her piano by a local dealer (best reputation) nine
> years ago, and the tops are now coming off.  I jested that mine would last at
> least a year.
>
> I honestly couldn't tell this person how long her replaced keytops "should" have
> lasted, nor can I tell my own customer how long she can expect the ones I did
> to stay put.  We all agreed that she should report the problem to the dealer, both
> for their information, and also to give them the opportunity to fix the problem,
> if that's appropriate (and it might NOT be!).  I also intructed (as always) my
> customer to report any problems she might have to me so that I can take care
> of them.
>
> My keytops are Vagias molded tops, and assuming that I used exactly the right
> amount of Weldwood contact cement and allowed it to dry for the optimum time
> before applying and that the customer has a "normal" environment for her piano,
> is there any reason to think they might someday just come unglued??
>
> The other lady didn't have any idea what material her nine-year-old keytops
> were made of.  As far as I know she didn't have her piano (a baby grand)
> situated next to her laundry room or in the kitchen.  Or in the shower.
>
> Larry Goss
> Cedar Mill Piano Tuning
> Cedar Mill, Oregon