Chickering damper wires

Susan Kline skline@proaxis.com
Tue, 01 Apr 1997 18:28:36 -0800 (PST)


At 05:53 PM 4/1/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I am also rebuilding 6'4" Chickering, but my hammer flanges are wood. My
>wippen flanges are brass, but I think they are all ok.
>
>My problem is with the dampers. These are the screw in type. (the damper wire
>is screwed into the damper flange). Has anyone had any experience working
>with these. Are there any tips you can give me?
>
>Willem Blees  RPT
>St. Louis
>
Wim --

I had to deal with an 1890's Weber grand with the screw in damper wires. I
changed it over to the standard system, drilling to accommodate brass
bushings. (APSCO # 33965A, screws # 33966, page 76.) I made sure the holes
for the bushings were just big enough to slide them in easily, then sized
the holes lightly with white glue, added the inserts, centered them by
sliding a damper wire down into them (holes had been reamed to allow the
threaded wires to slide easily). Then I added 1 drop of CA glue at the edge
of the inserts, to secure them.

I was a little anxious, but nothing split, no center pins were weakened,
everything lined up and worked. It was a fuss, but after they were in they
were very pleasant to regulate.

When I first approached the piano, I didn't know where to start. I tried
unscrewing a damper, and it was very hard to get it to turn, and the plate
was in the way. I wanted to save the heads and old wires (this was a very
low budget job). I also didn't want to weaken the 100-year-old underlever
centers. I discovered that once I had loosened the damper tray, etc., and
taken out the damper guide rail screws, I could JUST slide the whole mess
out of the action cavity, and take it home to the bench, damper guide rails
hanging on the wires. It literally rubbed, but it came out. At home, without
the plate in the way, it was much easier to twist out the wires without
wrecking anything.

Good luck!

Susan Kline
skline@proaxis.com
P.O. Box 1651,
Philomath, OR 97370


"Nature favors the hidden flaw."





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