changing treble strings..

Avery Todd atodd@UH.EDU
Tue, 15 Apr 1997 12:39:26 -0500


Phil and others interested,

Phil Bondi wrote:
>...i would like a hint or 2 as to keeping a tight coil on treble string
>replacement..i changed a bass string last week and the coil was *not
>acceptable* as far as i am concerned..it wasn't a tight 3-wind coil.. i have
>the right tools for the job, but my technique could use some help..

Ted Simmons wrote:
   >>Do you have the Sciortino Insta-Coiler, Schaff #122 or the Sciortino Hand
>>Held Coil Maker, Schaff #273?  Pictures on pages 20 & 35 of Schaff's tool
>>catalog.

   With some attention to detail and a little practice, you can make neat
coils even without the tools Ted mentioned above. Note: I'm not saying don't
get them. :-)
   Whether using a "dummy" pin to replace a broken string, or if you're
also replacing the tuning pin, keep the coils as tight and neat as possible
while initially making the coil. When making the second coil (assuming it's

not a bass or single tie string) keep the wire under tension while making
the coil. If you're in an agraffe section, make sure you put the wire
through the agraffe BEFORE making the coil. :-)  Make sure none of the
coils overlap.
   After the string is on the pin (or the new pin is in the block), make
sure the becket wire (that portion going through the pin) is free in the
hole so that you'll be able to make the becket tight (and ALL THE WAY
THROUGH THE PIN) as you pull the string up to pitch using a coil lifter of
your choice. I pull the string up in increments, squeezing the becket a
couple of times while doing it to be sure it gets all the way through the
hole. You DON'T want to have the becket only part way into the hole. It
WILL start pulling out over time and the string will never stay in tune. It
will probably eventually pull all the way out.
   Be sure to leave yourself enough room so the bottom of the coil isn't on
the plate or into the courtersink. Also be careful as you pull the string
up to pitch that none of the coils overlap.
   Even out the pin height in the block (use a pin block support), lightly
tap the string(s) down on the hitch pin and bridge, level out the coil on
the pin and finish pulling it up to pitch. I also like to squeeze the
string together a "little" at the bend around the hitch pin and "massage"
the string a little with a hammer shank to help get quicker tuning
stability. Recheck everything. Make any corrections necessary. You should
also check the mating of the strings to the hammer after they're up to
pitch.
   After you know the process, the bottom line is "use common sense and pay
attention to detail". Don't do sloppy work. Sooner or later, it'll catch up

to you. Most of us "older" techs have seen work we did years & years ago
(or worse still, someone else sees it!) and "my" thought is always: I can't
believe I did that! With effort and experience, everyone should get better
over the years.
   Hope this helps and that I didn't overlook anything.

Avery

_____________________________________
Avery Todd, RPT
Moores School of Music
University of Houston
713-743-3226
atodd@uh.edu
http://www.uh.edu/music/
_____________________________________






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