glueing controversy

[Richard Moody]

Since no one has mentioned it, I have heard that another
consideration for using hide glue for hammers is that not as much
moisture is absorbed into the hammer shank upon drying.  That the
water soluble liquid "white" glues including tight bond dry by
evaporation and absorbtion of water from the glue to the wood.  This
could cause warping or twisting of the hammer shank.  But fortunately
we have shank burners and heated benders.  
	Perhaps a myth, and I have not noticed a difference, but not had the
near the experience of those I heard expounding on this. 
	Also can any one comment on why most types of glue need to dry under
pressure? This might explain the "brittleness" of some glue joints on
some hammers that got reamed a hair more to get that perfect hammer
line.  Or the tapered shanks are not gonna match up exactly with
bored holes that have to be hand reamed to get a desired position
first and fit second. 

	Here's one for controversy.  What to do about clicking hammer heads?
CA of course. Easy as pie in grand actions,  uprights though it does
help (really necessary) to turn upside down. (the action not the
piano) No wonder I havn't seen
my hammer extractor for a while. 
Richard Moody. 
----------
> From: Bob Anderson <fndango@azstarnet.com>
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Subject: Re: glueing controversy
> Date: Sunday, September 14, 1997 6:00 PM
> 
 I
> usually use Titebond(aliphatic resin) for hammer hanging, because
my
> shop stints are often short and interrupted by field work. I don't
have
> any objection to hide glue, but I don't want to have to be
continuously
> keeping track of it when I'm out of the shop most of the time.
> 
> I've heard arguments both pro and contra vis-a-vis the
"brittleness" of
> hide glue for hammer hanging (by experienced piano technicians). I
> haven't discovered an overwhelming advantage for either point of
view,
> in my personal experience. I admit that my experience is not
profound.
> 
> Bob Anderson
> Tucson, AZ