Damp Action Drying

[Richard Moody]

Susan is right about Photoflo.   Only a tiny amount needs to be added
to the water alcohol mixture.  You can test this by placing a drop on
a piece of wood, (like the flange itself) and observing how  much
faster it is absorbed into the wood.

	The verdigris must be a reaction of a petroleum based solvent on
brass.  Many actions were sprayed with WD 40 which by now is
considered a no-no.  But this is my nomination for why verdigris
appears on center pins.  Whether or not solutions such as Protek,
silicone sprays, or another favorite of mine, naptha or common
cigarette lighter fluid, will cause this green slime should be looked
into. I know these will loosen such cneters.  I have a feeling
verdigris developes over a long period of time, and thus may have to
be treated every two or thee yerars.  But cigarette lighter fluid
seems to work in vertigris situations better than alcohol and water
especially if a little heat can be applied. Susan's comments about
center pins and  their plating wearing off are interesting.  I have
heard about them made from "german silver"   what is that? 

	To make a "drip-o-lator"  take a piece of #10 music wire (.024") and
push it into the "needle" of the hypo-oiler.  Turn it upside down and
observe how the shrinking solution "marches" down the wire in neat
little drops.  Touch the end of this wire to the bushing you want to
treat, and you can get precisely one, two , or three drops.  If the
action is on an action holder, it can be tipped so that you have best
access to the bushings.  You don't want to get this water alcohol
mixture on the butt leathers or you will really have a mess.  That is
why I have used naptha as it doesn't seem to matter if this gets on
the leathers.  Also naptha is less drastic and if it works, I stop
there. But what ever solution is used I think the action should be
heated in any one of the described  drying boxes.  I have used a
blanket over the action against a base board register.  The moving
air I think is best. 

	The water alcohol works because wool shrinks when it dries due to
the action of  water.  Alcohol is used to make the water absorbe
faster, the Photo-Flo 200 makes it absorb super fast.   Perhaps wool
soaked with naptha also shrinks upon drying, but a wool expert would
have to verify this.  If naptha actually does shrink wool, I would
lean towards that rather than the water alcohol as then I know I am
treating just the wool, and leaving the wood alone.  Now if the wood
itself is swelling and causing tight centers, then "watering the
action" might be the better way to go. Also if the wood has shrunk
causing loose centers, perhaps watering might remedy this, but I have
yet to try this because any idiot could see the felt centers should
shrink as well.  But some things don't always happen the way you
"see" them. 

Richard Moody  

----------
> From: Susan Kline <skline@proaxis.com>
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Subject: Re: Damp Action Drying
> Date: Saturday, September 20, 1997 9:03 AM
> 
> Hi, Richard --
> 
> Verdigris or dampness -- don't forget nickel-plated center pins
where the
> plating is failing as a source of slow or seized notes. Inspection
of the
> old pin under magnification tells the story, with score marks and
brass
> showing through. In spite of the fragments of plating that must
still be
> lodged in the bushing, I have found that repinning with a plain
brass pin
> does the trick.
> 
> If you could part with the details of your "Dripolator" and
procedure for
> "shrinking the action" it would be helpful.. (hmmmm, known to
photographers?
> Could we be talking Photoflo?  "surfactant", like alcohol ...)
> 
>