Plate - Grinding

Alan W Deverell aland@casa.co.nz
Sun, 23 Aug 1998 20:20:18 +1200


Yes - thanks Joe - my most profound apologies to "Al Jolson"

AlanD (who's memory & spelling is pretty atrocious at the best of
times and who's spell checker does not have "Jolson" in it anyway)

>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org
>[mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf
>Of Joe & Penny Goss
>Sent: Sunday, August 23, 1998 1:15 PM
>To: pianotech@ptg.org
>Subject: Re: Plate - Grinding
>
>
>ALAN,
>Do you mean Al Jolson?
>Joe
>----------
>> From: Alan W Deverell <aland@casa.co.nz>
>> To: pianotech@ptg.org
>> Subject: RE: Plate - Grinding
>> Date: Saturday, August 22, 1998 6:48 PM
>>
>> Peter & Others - I might have added (although most may
>already know):
>>
>> 1) Cast Iron is quite brittle - surface defects in stress areas can
>> lead to fracture cracks - can lead to eventual breaking of the
>> casting.
>>
>> 2) Cast Irons is NOT very ductile - do NOT hammer or
>subject to high
>> impact/shock loadings (drop on to a concrete floor). There is an
>> exception to this, in that, "peening" a welded crack to unify the
>> stresses introduced by welding - but this is the preserve
>of a skilled
>> cast iron welder).
>>
>> 3) If you progressively "drill out" a line along the 25mm
>you wish to
>> remove (as someone suggested) you MUST ensure that you
>grind away the
>> drillings so as to ensure a clean uniform blended (fettled) surface
>> conforming to the sculpture of a GOOD plate design,
>otherwise, if the
>> are any loadings throughout the area removed then the
>caution of "1)"
>> above may be revealed.
>>
>> 4) Some Piano Castings are pretty rough and "fettling" of
>the castings
>> not properly undertaken. I believe that tidying up with a
>die-grinder
>> etc. (as described below) is often appropriate/essential to a
>> professional re-build before the plate is re-painted.
>>
>> 5) The invasion of Cast Iron dust included the human skin
>etc., so, if
>> face, scalp, hair and hands etc. are not covered then you will
>> certainly require to take a shower otherwise you may look like Al
>> Johnson, or some other character out of the Black & White
>Minstrels.
>>
>> AlanD (who has often looked like Al Johnson but never sung
>like him)
>>
>> PS - Not sure if Belgium knows about Al Johnson and the
>"Black & White
>> Minstrels"
>>
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org
>> >[mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf
>> >Of Peter Kestens
>> >Sent: Sunday, August 23, 1998 7:17 AM
>> >To: pianotech@ptg.org
>> >Subject: Re: Plate - Grinding
>> >
>> >
>> >Alan,
>> >
>> >Thanks a lot for your information.  I hope it all will work well.
>> >Peter
>> >-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
>> >Van: Alan W Deverell <aland@casa.co.nz>
>> >Aan: pianotech@ptg.org <pianotech@ptg.org>
>> >Datum: vrijdag 21 augustus 1998 1:37
>> >Onderwerp: RE: Plate - Grinding
>> >
>> >
>> >>Although I have never had to remove as much as 25mm
>(1"), my work on
>> >>Older Cast Iron Plates has all been done with the aid of
>> >the following
>> >>equipment:
>> >>
>> >>1) Tool Makers Die Grinders (electric or pneumatic) fitted with
>> >>appropriate "Mounted Points" up to 1" diameter and shaped, using
>> >>"dressing tools" to suit the "re-fettling" job.
>> >>2) Angle Grinders (electric or pneumatic) fitted with
>> >appropriate grit
>> >>disks and sanding pads.
>> >>3) Sanding "bobs" (mounted in electric or pneumatic
>drills) to level
>> >>some of the surface markings.
>> >>4) Hand sanding using cloth backed "emmery paper" strips.
>> >>
>> >>Any good engineering supply shop should be able to
>advise you in the
>> >>selection of all the gear.
>> >>
>> >>I recommend that you practice the skills on something unimportant
>> >>before you begin in earnest and that you ensure that the
>> >25mm you wish
>> >>to remove is NOT going to compromise the structural
>integrity of the
>> >>plate.
>> >>
>> >>Warning - Cast Iron DUST, produced by these methods, is
>> >VERY invasive
>> >>and it is essential to wear appropriate breathing
>apparatus, safety
>> >>glasses and ear muffs etc. and to vacuums clean/sweep up
>afterwards.
>> >>
>> >>AlanD (who learned these basic skills, 25 years ago, porting and
>> >>polishing the cylinder heads of racing engines)
>> >>
>> >>>-----Original Message-----
>> >>>From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org
>> >>>[mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf
>> >>>Of Peter Kestens
>> >>>Sent: Friday, August 21, 1998 8:12 AM
>> >>>To: pianotech@ptg.org
>> >>>Subject: plate
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>Hello,
>> >>>
>> >>>I'm "truying" to rebuild an old (ugly) german piano to a
>> >>>(less or more)
>> >>>decent one.  Lets say  I do it  as an exercise.
>> >>>For this, I've rescaled the old stringscale but I've also to
>> >>>make a totally
>> >>>new bridge because the program (=Parsons) showed strings
>> >>>that are about 30
>> >>>mm to long (and this means inharmonicity is very bad). I
>> >>>also have to remove
>> >>>some metal from the plate: the new bridge comes about where
>> >>>two screws now
>> >>>fasten the plate.  There is place to make new screw-holes 25
>> >>>mm higher but
>> >>>what is the most easy way to remove about 25 mm of metal
>> >>>without to much
>> >>>damaging  the plate.   The screw-holes are for the moment
>> >>>left and right
>> >>>from the treble bar from the plate.  Thanks a lot for your help.
>> >>>
>> >>>Peter
>> >>>
>> >>>KESTENS.P@DEBCOM.BE
>>
>



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