Tight action centers

[Ted Simmons]

There had been some discussion on tight action centers in the past.  One
solution that was new and interesting but subject to someone else testing
it is to remove the action and, in a well-ventilated area, spray the
centers with an ether spray available from auto dealers.  Besides the
fellow who suggested it, has anyone else tried it?  Another suggestion that
I have tried was to push one side of the center pin in just a little, then
the other side.  The slight burr on the ends of the center pins loosen up
the felt bushing very slightly.  That method works, but I wouldn't try it
on an entire set of flanges.

Ted Simmons, Merritt Island, FL

>Just to clarify the clarification. I believe I said in my post that high
>humidity could compound the problem, not that it was the cause of the
>Verdigris, itself. Indeed, high humidity by itself, with no evidence of
>Verdigris present, can cause sluggish action centers. So there might be
>two factors at work here, instead of just one. The only way to tell for
>sure is to pull the action and examine the action centers, themselves.
>It's unlikely, however, that such a condition developed "overnight".
>I would think that the problem would have first manifested itself in
>the high treble-- and, hence, lightest weight-- hammers some time ago.
>In fact that's one of the first things you look for in an older Stein-
>way, because the problem is so common. At any rate, Verdigris isn't
>called "the greenies" for nothing. If it's present, you'll find it.
>Check the sides of the flanges at the bushing/centerpin for a dark green
>waxy substance. Also check the bottom of the flange and action rail.
>Rebushing/repinning the old flanges, or just replacing the old flanges
>with new, is an option short of replacing the entire action, assuming
>the action centers (bird's-eyes) of the other old parts you're going to
>reuse can be thoroughly flushed and cleaned out of (hopefully) all traces
>of the green stuff.For the flushing/cleaning you have several alternatives
>to choose from, among them: alcohol and water; Protek; Renewsit (if you
>can still find it); silicone and naptha; and silicone, naptha AND Protek,
>and even acetone, to name just a few!!!! BTW, when using this stuff, do so
>with adequate ventilation. When you're finished with the job, you'd
>probably like to still be around to pick up that big check due you! As
>you can see, this problem has been around for a while, and many different
>approaches have been tried. The success of any given approach will depend
>upon just how severe a case of Verdigris you have. An approach that will
>work with a relatively mild case, might not cut it with a more severe
>case. You problem will fall between the two extremes of maybe just hav-
>ing to treat the action centers with Protek (don't you wish) to having
>to replace the entire action. Obviously this broad expanse of possi-
>bilities means that giving a firm estimate on the job is exceedingly
>precarious  until you know exactly what you're up against. One hint
>is that if you  encounter sluggish repetition levers, too, you're
>likely looking at a maxxed-out case. One comment I'll make on verdigris
>is that it's a very common problem on older Steinways. Once you become
>accustomed to dealing with it, you'll find that it can become a HUGE
>money-maker for you, all by itself. The work pays very well. If you make
>your living primarily by doing tuning and repair work in people's
>homes, constantly on the go all the time, you may come to appreciate
>the opportunity to do work in your shop at home. In time, you'll
>probably discover that you can use your time more effectively and more
>profitably, by doing shop-work such as this. Even if the Steinway you're
>working on isn't yet ready for a conplete rebuild (and maybe YOU aren't
>quite ready, either!), the chances are that if the piano is old enough
>to have a serious verdigris problem, it also probably is in need of
>a new set of hammers and a complete regulation, too. The dollars readily
>begin to add up in work of this kind. Which is one reason you frequently
>hear me speak about constantly trying to upgrade the quality of the in-
>struments you work on. It eventually leads to work like this. And the
>owners of such instruments will likely refer you to other owners of
>similar-quality pianos. You've probably often heard someone say "Work
>smarter, not harder". Such thinking is for losers. The idea is to work
>smart AND hard! So while some may view Verdigris as a difficult problem
>to deal with, you should look upon it as an opportunity to expand your
>business, your income and your professional standing. You can become a
>tech who specializes in old Steinways. No kidding. It's a hell of a
>reputation to have.
>
>Les Smith
>lessmith@buffnet.net