In defense of TAR I think the tubular action rail (TAR) works well and serves a definite function. I believe the rails were designed to virtually eliminate wood movement problems. This design dates from the 1870 and if you are familiar with the wood rails used in the Steinway grand piano before this time you can appreciate what a huge improvement they were. The brackets on the earlier wood rails were glued to the key frame. The new design allowed for easy access to the keys and the removal of the upper part of the action as a subassembly. The old wood brackets and wood rails exhibited undue wood movement that effected the stability of action regulating. The new tubular rails eliminated wood movement between the rails. They also were rigid and would maintain alignment when removed from the key frame. Tubular rails are at least as stiff as these earlier wood rails. Maybe another aspect can be seen in how the new rail shape brings the action centers closer inline along the grain to where the flange is screwed to the rail. This will reduce the amount the flange centers will move in relation to the rails. Also the rail profile allows the flange screw to pass through less wood. The thickness of the Renner Steinway hammer flange is less than 6mm. The same measurement on an average flat rail flange is 8mm. The Steinway design reduces the stresses on the flange due to wood movement. There are other factors as well such as allowing for a lower string height and less room needed at the breaks for the rail to fit. Ever notice how hard it is to access the front screws on smaller M&Hs and how much the keys have to be altered to accommodate the flanges. Here are some pointers on working with TARs. 1. Use the pre-glued felt sold by Steinway under the hammer shanks. This will help the shanks stay adjusted. 2. Use shanks that have screw holes larger than the screws to help with spacing. Renner parts come this way but some others will need to be re-drilled. 3. Use high quality cut thread hammer flange screws. Cost more but will reduce hole stripping. 4. Do not over twist shank flanges to space. Instead travel the shanks in areas were the string pacing is to close together or erratic. The hammer should be evenly space at rest but may travel a little to hit the strings. 5. Space the strings to the hammers in the De-capo area. 6. For fine spacing get the spacing tool Renner sells. Grind the sides to fit between the flanges better. 7. Either set up to replace action rails or find some one to do it for you. John Hartman Beacon NY Rebuilding Steinway piano with minimum re-engineering since 1979.
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC