Tool mods (was Groovy Hammers)

[harvey]

I changed the subject line. We're getting in my home turf with Newt's last
reply.

Ya, I've actually found other uses for the checkering file -- similar to
Jon's description. Thanks for the tool handle tip. The rest of this is for
the group.

Off-subject tool tip: If you must "look" underneath to find screw holes OR
screw slots in cheekblocks, keyslips, etc., whether removing or installing,
you're losing efficiency. More practice indicated.

Regarding checkering or knurling of other tools. Newt's right, the plating
makes them slippery. I like to use -some- of my combo handled tools as
spin-drivers; i.e., supported by the handle, but turned by the blade any
time the fastener is loose. There is a hand-held knurling plier available
for machinists -- the depth of knurl determined by how hard the handles are
gripped. I used this to create a roughened, finger-spinning area on blades.
The 'moment' or location of knurl (2~3 finger widths) is determined by
allowing the particular screwdriver, regulating, or other tool to "fall"
into the hand a few times -- you'll find that your fingers wrap around the
blade at approximately the same place every time. It's not always at the
rear, middle or most forward end of the blade, and varies from one person
to another -and- from one tool blade to the other.

Where any plating is destroyed, use gun bluing to dress the newly knurled
area and add the "premature rust" effect. Depending on the bluing, it can
have the appearance of a black oxide coating in the knurled area. In spite
of looking strange, it's not bad.

Additional on the knurling plier. The business end consists of 3 rollers,
two over, one under the material if I recall. I used it while at the school
district, where I also had access to a machine lathe. Therefore, I don't
know a brand name for the plier, -or- if it would work in a drill motor. (I
felt this question coming). If so, it would probably require a 1/2" drill
motor, since using the plier is effectively the same as trying to stop the
chuck with your hand. The pattern of knurling can be changed by how many
passes, speed, and/or pressure applied. Finally, it's really difficult to
knurl Vanadium steel (unplated, very hard) blades, but it can be done.

I edited this three times -- hope it was mildly clear.

At 11:10 AM 9/17/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey Jim, keep the tool, over priced or not, it is a good tool for making
>hand tools less slippery.  I have used mine on a number of hand made
>tools and jigs.
>
>One of my pet peeves is plated tools.  They look nice, but chrome is
>very slippery and too hard to checker.  SLippery tools are uncomfortable
>to use.


Jim Harvey, RPT
harvey@greenwood.net
________________________
 -- someone who's been in the field too long.