wire curve

[Ron Nossaman]

>Ron,
>If this is in reference to my previous posting which mentioned 'natural curve'
>I was referring to the curve in the wire once it is up to tension and curving
>at bearing points. 'Attending to this' is tapping wire at the rear duplex to 
>sharpen the bend, also at the bridge pins, capo - both sides, and the counter
>bearing bar.
>
>The natural curve I think you are referring to is the result of being removed
>from
>the roll/coil. My approach to this curve is to measure the entire string
>length.
>By this I mean, while stringing I have a section of wire extending beyond the
>t-pin
>to allow for the coils and extending it to the hitch pin. The h/p location is
>held
>between two fingers and then held up & doubled back, the wire is then cut at
>the
>location where the starting point of the wire meets. With my fingers still
>holding
>the h/p location I make the bend on a nail which is set into a board and
>clamped
>onto the keybed. The bend is made with the wire curved upwards and the bend
>made at 90 degree to this causing the loop to curve upwards.
>
>To relieve the stress wanting the wire to jump off the h\p, I bend it slightly
>downwards;
>straightening it out somewhat. The wire is installed and this way both sides
>are cut
>the same lengths from their respective pins and the pins are coiled 90 degrees
>to
>the pin block. I get no twisting this way.
>
>This procedure is described in the Becket Tool information, this tool is
>simply
>a
>measuring gage to cut the wire uniformly (info and jpg sent on request - info
>contains
>details for making gage).
>
>Regards,
>
>Jon Page
>Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass. (jpage@capecod.net)
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Yep, I was referring to the coil. I missed your intent, sorry. I saw the
phrase "natural curve" and it was just a critical mass sort of thing, you
know? Old people are like that. You install them with the curve "belly" down
then. Any particular reason? 

OK, the question still stands, has anyone got any real correlation between
the orientation of the curve of the wire as it comes off the roll, or is
twisted in assembly, and specific string noises? 

The reason for all this is that I haven't noticed any particular correlation
or need to be unnecessarily picky about it during stringing. I'm either just
not that alert, or it doesn't make a lot of difference in the first place. I
hear techs say that they replaced a noisy string and the noise went away,
therefore it must have been a twisted string - or some such. I've replaced
noisy strings with quiet ones too, but I don't assume it was the original
installation method that made the difference or the whole piano would sound
like that bad string. Stringers survive by being repetative. I was just
wondering if anyone had anything real and demonstrative, an actual cause and
effect relationship, instead of surmision.

Trying to shovel another layer of muck from the profession.

Thanks for the reply Jon, and I already got the BT info a while back.

 Ron