Key FrontsWARNING:PYROS DELETE NOW!!!

[Guy, Karen, and Tor Nichols]

At 03:29 PM 7/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>List members.
>Is there a easy way to remove key fronts.

Ron,	
	Yes, there's a very easy way, but it's one of those that I'm not sure
is... uh.... sanctioned by any organization. %^)

But...... it REALLY REALLY works, so...

1)	Remove tops first, with whatever method you're used to.
2) Take key set OUTSIDE, and layout on bench, or whatever, nice flat
continuos surface.
3) Use sponge to moisten bare wood of front of keys, sides, tops, and
bottoms. note: if 	replacing front bushings, do this procedure first.
4)Layout all 52 moistened keys in a VERY straight line, all sides flush,
all fronts hanging off     	the edge of the bench at least 1/2".
5) Fill a plant-mister/cat-training device-type bottle with water, and set
to medium mist
6)Set a regular propane torch (cheap/disposable/whatever) to a
small-to-medium flame, 	and..........
7)Just *touch* the tip of the flame to the dead-center of the front. Be
ready to move on quickly.Different fronts react at different rates, but
you'll detect the appropriate speed ... soon. Use the mister bottle to
extinguish, when needed, and to keep the little black flying goobers in
check. Don't breath the stuff, of course, but this procedure is SO QUICK
that you'll be able to hold your breath for the entire job. Really.
8) Block sand lightly, after torching, and you're ready. Minutes later.

Positives:
		Very fast and efficient
Negatives:
		Toxic air pollution, and the minor possibility of a little scorching on
the sides, if not pre-moistened or lined-up squarely.

>Or, who sells the best fixture to saw them off?

Dunno, if I have to, I route the buggers. 

>
>Does anyone use the one piece key top and fronts?  I've  only used the tops
>and have a system for that but wondering how best to do the complete  one
>piece  unit.
>Ron Lindquist   R&R Piano Service

Biggest clue with one-piece is to stay thin... like 50's or 60's. 75's
won't flex easily enough to "arch" them into place. First contact needs to
be the very top front edge, of course.  Indexing to one side or the other
saves a little trimming. Centering is for Shirleys.


Have fun, and if you burn down your shop, you never heard of me. ;-)

Guy Nichols, RPT (which DOESN'T stand for something P yro T echnic !)