Key FrontsWARNING:PYROS DELETE NOW!!!

[Joe & Penny Goss]

Hi Folks,
Had a good chuckle thinking visualizing what could happen using the torch
method.
Especially since it is the July 4th weekend. I think that truing your
method just for fun on a few keys might be quite a hoot. Will update my
fire insurance first though :<0
Joe Goss
----------
> From: Guy, Karen, and Tor Nichols <nicho@roadrunner.com>
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Subject: Re: Key FrontsWARNING:PYROS DELETE NOW!!!
> Date: Saturday, July 03, 1999 11:00 AM
> 
> At 03:29 PM 7/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >List members.
> >Is there a easy way to remove key fronts.
> 
> Ron,	
> 	Yes, there's a very easy way, but it's one of those that I'm not sure
> is... uh.... sanctioned by any organization. %^)
> 
> But...... it REALLY REALLY works, so...
> 
> 1)	Remove tops first, with whatever method you're used to.
> 2) Take key set OUTSIDE, and layout on bench, or whatever, nice flat
> continuos surface.
> 3) Use sponge to moisten bare wood of front of keys, sides, tops, and
> bottoms. note: if 	replacing front bushings, do this procedure first.
> 4)Layout all 52 moistened keys in a VERY straight line, all sides flush,
> all fronts hanging off     	the edge of the bench at least 1/2".
> 5) Fill a plant-mister/cat-training device-type bottle with water, and
set
> to medium mist
> 6)Set a regular propane torch (cheap/disposable/whatever) to a
> small-to-medium flame, 	and..........
> 7)Just *touch* the tip of the flame to the dead-center of the front. Be
> ready to move on quickly.Different fronts react at different rates, but
> you'll detect the appropriate speed ... soon. Use the mister bottle to
> extinguish, when needed, and to keep the little black flying goobers in
> check. Don't breath the stuff, of course, but this procedure is SO QUICK
> that you'll be able to hold your breath for the entire job. Really.
> 8) Block sand lightly, after torching, and you're ready. Minutes later.
> 
> Positives:
> 		Very fast and efficient
> Negatives:
> 		Toxic air pollution, and the minor possibility of a little scorching on
> the sides, if not pre-moistened or lined-up squarely.
> 
> >Or, who sells the best fixture to saw them off?
> 
> Dunno, if I have to, I route the buggers. 
> 
> >
> >Does anyone use the one piece key top and fronts?  I've  only used the
tops
> >and have a system for that but wondering how best to do the complete 
one
> >piece  unit.
> >Ron Lindquist   R&R Piano Service
> 
> Biggest clue with one-piece is to stay thin... like 50's or 60's. 75's
> won't flex easily enough to "arch" them into place. First contact needs
to
> be the very top front edge, of course.  Indexing to one side or the other
> saves a little trimming. Centering is for Shirleys.
> 
> 
> Have fun, and if you burn down your shop, you never heard of me. ;-)
> 
> Guy Nichols, RPT (which DOESN'T stand for something P yro T echnic !)