Roger, I'm happy with the white height/level. Good point about the key recovering. Thanks to all for the tips. Roger Jolly wrote: > > Hi Jerry, > Most of the points re dip, and after touch have been covered by > other post's. One thing to bear in mind,if the keys have been recovered > at some time, and changed from ivory to plastic, the plastic is about > 0.030" thicker. If the keys have not been milled to compensate for the > difference you will have this problem. > Secondly, some manufacturers spec their sharps to be slightly higher > than the naturals. > As a rough rule of thumb key height on an old upright will be very > close, if the front of the key that is above the keyslip forms a square. > This was done by most manufacturers for cosmetic reasons. > Hope this helps > Roger > > Jerry Hunt wrote: > > > > In leveling the sharps on my old upright/cadaver, most of them when > > leveled at 1/2" above the white keys (which were leveled first), the key > > sits noticably higher than the adjacent white keys at the balance rail. > > Reblitz notes that the top of the wood part of the keys should be about > > the same height for both sharps and whites. > > > > Obviously, on this piano, I can't do both. Granted, the sharps may be > > worn slightly (I repainted them) but I wouldn't think they would be worn > > that much. Which is preferable, sharps 1/2" above whites, or top of keys > > (excluding keytops/sharp cover) level? > > > > Thanks, and I hope my scenario is clear. > > -- > > Jerry Hunt > > Dallas, TX -- Jerry Hunt Dallas, TX
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