Or another way is to set the dip of the sharps the desired height above the naturals and the height is determined by equal checking. Either way. At 09:36 PM 3/8/99 -0500, you wrote: >The dip of the sharp is regulated by the backcheck (check-in). > >First one lays the touch on the naturals and then the height on the sharps. >The backchecks are adjusted on the naturals and the sharp's backchecks >are set in line with them. The dip on the sharps is determined by having >the hammers check even with the natural's hammers. > >Nickel or not, for alignment and even-ness; that's my story and I'm >stickin' to >it. > >Or two cents, anyways; > >Jon Page >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >At 06:22 PM 3/8/99 -0600, you wrote: >>The nickel gives you uniform looks then you can go with after touch to fine >>tune it. >> James Grebe >>R.P.T. and M.P.T. >> from St. Louis >>pianoman@inlink.com >> Creator of: >> Handsome Hardwood Caster Cups >> and >>Practical Piano Benches >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: Newton Hunt <nhunt@jagat.com> >>To: pianotech@ptg.org <pianotech@ptg.org> >>Date: Sunday, March 07, 1999 10:45 AM >>Subject: Re: Sharp leveling >> >> >>>> >>>> I have always used the thickness of a nickel above the natural when the >>>> sharp is depressed. >>>> >>> >>>OK, James, then you have to set the height of the sharp to match the >>>after touch to it's white neighbors. Hmmm, hadn't thought of doing it >>>that way. Must give it a try sometime. >>> >>> Newton >>> >>> >> >
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC