> shim with veneer or such? You need to consider the location of the center pin, not the thickness of the flange. Use the part that provides the lowest touch weight, or more specifically the greatest spread between up and down weight. I would remove the lead closest to the front. Measure the touch weight. Go for even balance weight. To do this you cut a weight down, bit by bit and replace the removed lead with the final portion of the lead. Lead removal is easiest on a drill press with a cross travel vise. If the left side of the key is blind use a spade bit 1/8" smaller than the weight, to push the weight out from the blind side. This tears out the least amount of lead. I have a block of wood with an hole 1/8" larger then the weights. The hole is center under the spade bit. There is another hole drilled so the lead falls out the side of the block instead into the vise. Use an arbor press to flatten the small piece of lead and I use CA glue to secure the piece in the hole. If you make a tray with numbered compartments you can do your weigh off then insert the leads as a set. If you have more than four leads in the bass you still have a problem of capstan location. A better way to do this is to use the full Stanwood system, adjust the weight of each hammer, adjust the front weight of each key to follow the hammer weight charts David has defined. You need to solve the weights using a quadratic equation and a spread sheet since the weight lines are not linear. David can supply further information. The system does work. Did you get the "turbo" wippen with the helper springs? Newton
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