Hi Terry, Some grands don't have bridge caps. Therefore the vertical laminations are quite accesseable. At 11:21 AM 8/1/00 -0400, you wrote: >Roger: O Yee of Great Wisdom. I read these posts with great interest, always >trying to learn about a situation before I run into it. In the post below, >if the vertical laminations on the bridge have delaminated (I assume we are >talking the main portion of the bridge below the bridge cap) and the bridge >cap is not cracked, how do you get epoxy into and spread around in the >vertically delaminated areas - isn't the bridge cap covering all this, >rendering the delaminated area inaccessable??????? > >Terry Farrell >Piano Tuning & Service >Tampa, Florida >mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Roger Jolly" <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca> >To: <pianotech@ptg.org> >Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 10:35 PM >Subject: Re: Bridge gain delamination > > >> Hi Patrick, >> I am assuming that the splits are only in the vertical >> laminations. >> I have successfully repaired a number of Baldwin vertically laminated >> bridges with separations. >> >> You need a few cabinet makers wooden handscrews. ( the wooden clamps with >> two handscrews) The points of the jaws will allow you to slip down >between >> the side of the bridge and the plate. Or you can modify them on a band >saw >> so that you can get a good grip on the sides of the bridges.. >> >> Remove enough strings to give you room to work. Dry clamp the offending >> area and see if you can draw the split together, usually no problem. >> >> Remove the bridge pins that have hair line cracks. >> >> I use West System thin epoxy. Swab the pin holes, and the split. Install >> new bridge pins. >> Tighten clamps. Clean excess with acetone. Leave for 24hrs to cure. >> >> If you have not used wooden handscrews. You need to practice a little >> before you start. They have a good deal of clamping power once you get >> used to them, and are less prone to marking or denting your work. >> >> Replacing the bridge pins is a personal fetish for this type of repair. >But >> the pin will act like a pump and fill your small cracks from the bottom. >> >> I presume the bridge cap is not cracked. >> >> Hope this is of help. >> >> Roger >> >> >> >> >> >> >> At 11:57 AM 31/07/00 -0400, you wrote: >> >Dear List: >> >I just returned from a piano evaluation, for a customer looking to buy a >> (32 year >> >old) small model 350 Kawai grand, walnut veneer, for $4500. Everything >> looked AOK >> >EXCEPT: >> >the bridge gain (cf. Mason, he also calls it the bridge core; I'd call it >the >> >bridge body) is separating along the diagonal joint 3-4 notes above the >> >tenor/treble break. There's minor cracking of the bridge surface at the >> bridge >> >pins, but there's clearly been some glue joint failure at the joint in >the >> body of >> >the bridge (the sides of the bridge are no longer flush, the joint line >is >> too >> >prominent). No tonal deficiencies because of it (yet). >> >I'm (optimistically) thinking I could fix this in the home by running >> screws with >> >washers through the separated parts, soak epoxy into the slight but real >> >separation, etc. I'm hoping that with 2-3 sessions the bridge should be >AOK. >> >Have any of you had success with this kind of repair on other Asian >pianos >> (I've >> >seen this as a problem area on all of their long bridges)? >> >Or should I tell my customer to back out of the deal? >> >Comments, Jim Jon Ron Roger et al? >> > >> Roger Jolly >> Saskatoon, Canada. >> 306-665-0213 >> Fax 652-0505 >> > > > Regards, Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.M.T., R.P.T. Tuner for the Saskatchewan Centre of the Arts drose@dlcwest.com http://donrose.htmlplanet.com/ 3004 Grant Rd. REGINA, SK S4S 5G7 306-352-3620 or 1-888-29t-uner
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