We've used sanding sealer and acetone for years. I think the thing about ss as opposed to topcoat (they're both nitro-based) is that it is a little softer and has stearates in it to make voicing with needles a little easier (this is the theory, mind you). A warning though: if you're prepping new S&S hammers, stick with the topcoat - ss is too soft for q-tip hammers. Thin it with acetone for faster drying. You can push it some with judicious use of a heat gun - I have done day-of-concert hardening with decent success, but would prefer to see it dry overnight. It seems that I am cutting it about 5 or 6 to 1. I mix it in a plastic catsup bottle that you can find at the supermarket in the dishware section (not the condiment section) and just do it by eye. The bottle had a screw-on lid with a plastic cap spout. This bottle may eventually crack with continuous contact with the dope, but it takes 3 or 4 years. Mark Story. RPT Eastern Washington University Cheney, Washington -----Original Message----- From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf Of Lance Lafargue Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 6:28 PM To: pianotech listserv (E-mail) Subject: Lacquer for hammers Dear list, I have used keytop/acetone for fifteen years now and am now convinced that it creates more unwanted noise than lacquer. I am in the process of getting used to using lacquer now. 1) Why do some techs use sanding sealer instead of nitrocellulose lacquer? Does it matter? 2) What is some advice you can give me on transfering the lacquer/thinner from gallon can to a bottle for use. 3) What kind of bottle do you use? How long must it dry? Do you ever put it on the strike point? What ratio? 4:1? 5:1? How long will it last after mixing sitting in the back of my truck? THANKS!! Lance Lafargue, RPT Mandeville, LA New Orleans Chapter lafargue@iamerica.net
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC