Pinblock/Frame Separation

[Bdshull@AOL.COM]

Hi, Terry:

With all the great posts on this subject so far, you have probably done this 
job already.  A couple things from my own experience:

On the one job I have done with so much separation (as least 1/2"), I found 
that I could get the crack closed, but it took time.  My pipe clamps bent 
from the pressure - I learned later it was mostly from my impatience.  If you 
use a slow setting glue you can borrow several hours for the gap to close, 
and it should close.  As Newton said, closing the gap IS important for 
downbearing.

If the back has pulled up and tilted - common in these situations - you may 
want to try to pull it down with long bar clamps fixed on the top and bottom 
of the back.  
Many of these repairs close the gap but leave a gap between the 
liner/pinblock assembly and the top of the posts.  Ideally this will also be 
closed, top and bottom of posts.  Since some pianos have a softwood liner in 
back (I think some Baldwins do, I know some have hardwood), I have used a 
steel plate or at least a hardwood liner to support the tee nut or carriage 
bolt.  Otherwise it pulls through and is pretty ugly - more important, you 
have to deal with the factor of the bolt pulling through the softwood while 
you are trying to pull the crack closed.  Your clamps help - they do most of 
the work, of course - but what is the point of the long bolts if they can 
still pull through a little more?  Better support them with hardwood inserts. 
 Next time I might make circle inserts in place of the liner at the bolt hole.

Sure enjoyed meeting you - that dinner with Brian and Conrad was 
unforgettable in more ways than one - I hope my restaurant faux paus is 
forgiven - you bore the brunt of it, I am afraid.

Hope this repair was a lot of fun!

Bill Shull, RPT
University of Redlands, La Sierra University, Riverside City College