Bridge gain delamination

[Jon Page]

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Patrick,
This is a horizontal joint, correct? Is there a cap involved?

I've drawn this type of crack type of crack together on a few pianos (none 
fur'n)
and have not received a call for warranty repair.

It is best to try and not damage the bridge surface for cosmetic reasons. 
plug/putty the hole,
apply Dag and replace the strings.

The purchase price would have to reflect the needed repair and the customer 
needs to
be well aware of what you will and will not guarantee with this repair. 
Will that_repair_come
back to haunt you by having the customer attributing it to future problems, 
imagined or real.

Maybe the owner will want to have it fixed in order to make it more saleable.

It should work though,

Jon Page

At 11:57 AM 07/31/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>Dear List:
>I just returned from a piano evaluation, for a customer looking to buy a 
>(32 year
>old) small model 350 Kawai grand, walnut veneer, for $4500. Everything 
>looked AOK
>EXCEPT:
>the bridge gain (cf. Mason, he also calls it the bridge core; I'd call it the
>bridge body) is separating along the diagonal joint 3-4 notes above the
>tenor/treble break. There's minor cracking of the bridge surface at the bridge
>pins, but there's clearly been some glue joint failure at the joint in the 
>body of
>the bridge (the sides of the bridge are no longer flush, the joint line is too
>prominent). No tonal deficiencies because of it (yet).
>I'm (optimistically) thinking I could fix this in the home by running 
>screws with
>washers through the separated parts, soak epoxy into the slight but real
>separation, etc. I'm hoping that with 2-3 sessions the bridge should be AOK.
>Have any of you had success with this kind of repair on other Asian pianos 
>(I've
>seen this as a problem area on all of their long bridges)?
>Or should I tell my customer to back out of the deal?
>Comments, Jim Jon Ron Roger et al?

Jon Page,   piano technician
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net
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