>I would think that tapping the bridge pins would indeed bottom the pin but >would also pull the string down and seat it to the bridge. I have had no >success in eliminating beating strings by seating but in my opinion it >clears up the tone. Perhaps, but I still don't advocate seating strings on bridges as a common field repair, since it doesn't really fix anything. According to my physics, it's not possible for a string to hover above a bridge top against the forces presented by positive downbearing and the pin draft angle. The string will be resting on the bridge, but will quite likely not be touching the bridge top at the extreme front edge, where the pin is, because that edge has been crushed by excessive pressure from humidity swings pushing the string up the pin (wet cycle) against the stagger and draft angle, and possibly repeated or over exuberant seating. As the downbearing angle lessens with the crown going down over time, that gap widens. That gap is also what makes it possible for the loose pin to flagpole. >I can think of hundreds of grands, especially >Japanese/Korean, where I could visibly see the string drop to bridge cap. >Another tap wouldn't move it. I use a thin piece of brass. My call: Too soft capping material crushes more. Like Ed said, it would be nice if better quality material was used in some of these caps. >I am interested >in the worn bridge pin theory...would a thin strip of emory cloth clean it >up with the tension down and while your at it clean up the capos. No. Replace them. Trying to buff them out will just lessen the effective pin draft angle. Incidentally, pull an old pin and look closely at where the string rode on it to see the worn pin theory for yourself. > Often >putting pressure on a bridge pin with a screwdrive blade will clean up the >tone. Which is precisely why I think most of these false beats are caused by flagpoling loose pins. Ron N
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