Don may have a better idea (easier) to use water thin CA glue. Back when we used epoxy, nobody was using CA. If you tried CA first, and it didn't work, you can always resort to epoxy. At least that way you wouldn't have to remove any tuning pins. To use epoxy, choose the slower drying stuff, like 20-ton instead of 5-minute. Make a test first before using it on the piano just to make sure the epoxy is not too old. Dip the tuning pin in it and pound it into the pinblock (under no load) and let it dry. A day or so later, turn the pin to break the seal. Try a couple of tuning pins while you are working on the bridge. BTW, you should clean and ream the tuning pin holes first to get to some fresh wood fibers instead of "shellac". To use plugs, you definitely must use epoxy instead of titebond, to glue them into the pinblock. I still say that the wood, grain, etc. varies enough that the plug material and the pinblock material loose moisture at different rates and puts a lot of torque on the glue joint. Make a few tests on an old piece of pinblock (or a pine two by four) using the CA, epoxy and a plug or two, and see what you like best. Carol Beigel >From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> >Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org >To: <pianotech@ptg.org> >Subject: Re: Pinblock Repair/Drill Press >Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 23:12:39 -0400 > >Hi Carol. Thanks for responding. I have never heard of epoxying in tuning >pins. Could you please explain how this is done? I love epoxy. One can do >almost anything with epoxy. How do you do tuning pins with epoxy????? Your >plugs came loose??? What kind of adhesive did you use? Thanks! > >Terry Farrell >Piano Tuning & Service >Tampa, Florida >mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com > _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com.
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC