False Beats

[Farrell]

Hello Carl Meyer. Interesting stuff. About 47 questions.

Epoxy. Do you know what the viscosity of West System resin is? I just wonder
how it compares to your Epo-tek 301. Where do you obtain your epoxy? Real
thin sounds real good. Any info on how hard it is compared to West System?
What about working time (pot life).

Your drill press. Where did you get it. Cheap small ones I have found don't
seem to turn 180 degrees, so that the chuck is opposite side of the base.
Does yours? Did you have to modify it? How did you do that? How do you get
it real short so that it gets close to the pinblock?

Drill bits. Where do your find 6-inch length pinblock drill bits for
drilling out the plugs? I know I can find a 1/4-inch, but what about the
several odd sizes that are usually required to find that perfect fit for
that particular day?

Plug cutter. Where did you find a plug cutter that cuts 1-3/8 to 1-5/8
inch-thick plugs? Do you use a tapered cutter or straight? If straight, as I
can only imagine, do you get nice clean sides, or are they kinda choppy? Any
problems with this (actually I would think a bit rough surface will give a
better glue joint!)?

Thanks for info!

Terry Farrell
Piano Tuning & Service
Tampa, Florida
mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl W. Meyer" <cmpiano@earthlink.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 12:12 AM
Subject: Re: False Beats


> I must add my two cents to this thread about ca, epoxy, bridge pins and
> tuning pins.
> There was a demo I think at the convention at Toronto several years ago.
> It was about filling tuning pin holes (after sealing the bottom) with an
> ultra thin epoxy. Epo-tek 301 has a viscosity of 100 centistokes.  That's
> thin.  It is also expensive since it was developed for optical use.  Being
> thin it will fill all cracks and also find where you didn't seal the
bottom
> good enough. It cures overnight and cures hard.  I've used it several
times
> for a complete pin block, drilling the epoxy out and using larger pins.  I
> have also plugged several complete blocks.  I made up a drilling machine
> with a cheap 5 speed drill press modified to allow full 2 inch stroke with
> less than one half turn of the handle.  I've seen these drill presses for
> as little as 39 dollars.  I mounted this on a piece white board and slid
it
> in a tray made with white board spanning across the piano.  It is
> reinforced especially on the rear and rests on the rim of the piano at
both
> ends and slides for and aft on a couple of terry cloth towels.  The drill
> assembly slides left to right.  Talcum powder helps.  I then cut my own
> plugs with a 3/8 plug cutter and cold gun.  Find just the right size drill
> that will give a slip fit.  You may need to use a 6 inch long metric size.
> If the holes in the plate are larger than 3/8 you will have to use a
> centering jig for the drill.  I've used epoxy and titebond.  They both
seem
> to work.  Now redrill with a .250 or .257 and string the piano with 2/0
> pins or what ever fits.  BTW, I just use ordinary supply house stock to
cut
> the plugs.
> If you epoxy a pin in a block, don't worry about the pin breaking.  Steel
> is harder than any
> epoxy.  I've never had a problem.  They always break loose.
>
> The advantage of ca glue is that it sets up fast.  The disadvantage of ca
> glue is that it sets up fast. The thinner ca glue is the faster it sets.
> I've used it for bridge pins, but I find it hard to use and I worry that
it
> might just seal the top of the hole making further applications
impossible.
> Due to air at the opening it would tend to set up first there.
> I have a bridge to do soon and I plan to use the very thin epoxy and heat
> the pins and bridge with a hair drier. Epoxy gets even thinner with heat
> and will capillary into the void and allow plenty of time to clean off the
> excess.  Epotek 301 cures overnight.  Ca glues fast set up time is great
> when you need it, but I like to have plenty of time for other work.
>
> I did find a thin epoxy made by Resin Formulators, but it's not as thin as
> the other.  Cheaper though.  I use epoxy and ca ever chance I get.  My
> theory is "don't screw it, glue it"!
>
> Carl Meyer
>
>
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Richard Brekne <Richard.Brekne@grieg.uib.no>
> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Date: 9/21/00 3:45:04 PM
> > Subject: Re: False Beats
> >
> >
> >
> > Newton Hunt wrote:
> >
> > > I prefer to CA bridge pins without strings to prevent
> > > contact with the string and buildup of CA in places hard to
> > > get to.
> >
> > I assume you mean in general that removal of bridge pins for application
> is
> > unneccesary then ?
> >
> > >
> > > I consider it important that the CA be allowed to work
> > > itself down to the bottom of the pin hole and then rise to
> > > the top of the bridge thereby filling the hole entirely and
> > > holding the full length of the pin in the hole.  If you have
> > > a miniscus ring stand for a few seconds without diminishing
> > > you know the hole is fully filled then use a tissue corner
> > > to wick up the excess.  Otherwise you may not get the full
> > > benefit of the CA project.
> >
> > Seems like when it dries out it both soaks into the wood and contracts a
> > bit. Is this correct ? And if so would a second application do the trick
?
> >
> > > On the Nordska I would remove an offending string and see
> > > what is under it
> >
> > I have read a few posts about what to look for so I am cool on that
much..
> > Still wondering about the affects of CA glue on the wood of the bridge
> > itself. Seems like it soaks in, and this sorta tells me that there might
> be
> > some effect on the general stiffness / hardness of the top say half a
> mill.
> > Perhaps this is benificial ?? might help protecting against humidity ??,
> > might affect the sound ?? any thoughts Newton ?
> >
> > >                 Newton
> >
> > --
> > Richard Brekne
> > RPT, N.P.T.F.
> > Bergen, Norway
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --- Carl W. Meyer, Santa Clara, Ca.
> --- cmpiano@earthlink.net
>
>
>