removing plate on S&S Square

[Ralph & Frances Thorn]

Hello Willem and list,
As indicated by others, the plate may be built into the case, in other
words part of the case is added above and after the plate is
installed.  This did provide for some additional structural stability
to an otherwise flawed design.

First, one should think seriously about this job.  Does the plate need
to come out?  If you are plugging tuning pin holes, or doing treble
bridge work, or resurfacing the soundboard, then I guess the answer is
yes.  I've avoided pulling the plates of squares a few times, but
we're not always so lucky.  On the plus side, a square plate can
easily be handled by one person once it is loose.  Just remember that
it may be a bit more fragile, too.

You've carefully checked for a hidden nosebolt, guidepin, or something
similar?

To remove a plate with this design, you will have to determine just
how much, and on what sides the plate is housed within the case.  I
have rebuilt only one Steinway square, and a few examples of large
plated-squares of other makes, altogether TOO many squares than
deserve this tender treatment, but then it wasn't my money being
invested.  I don't really remember much about the Steinway, but other
makes often have either the back edge of the plate let-into the case,
or in some instances, both the back and the right side (Chickering?).
One edge is bad enough, and certainly two is trouble.  If the back
edge is the only face, chisel out on an ~45° angle, about 1/2" high
along the back edge above the plate.  The plate is under the case for
about 3/8 to 1/2'" in some pianos.  This area often has a bit of trim,
and if not, maybe it would better with one to cover up the wound.

If both (or even three) edges are housed, you may have to do some very
serious case remodelling.  A nice sharp blade in a "skil" saw may be
needed to cut off the side wall of the case, my recommendation is at a
point some distance below the level of the plate, say 1".  Set the
depth of cut to the case thickness, and use a guide fastened to the
case side to achieve a straight cut.  Remove a 1/2" wide band of
veneer along this cut line first, to be replaced after repairs to the
case are made.  You will need to make up the stock removed by the saw
with a thickness of similar material when putting things back
together.  Be careful of the back corner which is usually dovetailed
together.  Investigate the structure and joints carefully first to
help plan your attack.

Also check the front plate bar (bass end of the plate).  This front
bar may still be wedged under the solid wooden beam, and that may be a
problem area - carefully slice through the veneer about 1/4" ahead of
the plate bar and then remove some core material (oak) to allow the
plate to rise on an angle up and forward.  This mess created can be
repaired easily with a nice solid piece, prepping the area while the
plate is out, but glueing in after the plate is returned.

I've found that this type of work sounds a lot worse than it really
is, and that despite the size of the tool and the mess made, things
come together just fine in the end.  Just take a big breathe and
charge in, after doing all the necessary forethought.

Good luck!

Ralph Thorn
Piano Rebuilder, older and early instrument specialist
London, Ontario, Canada
pianoralph@sympatico.ca