Restoring old uprights - RICCA & SONS

[Brian Lawson]

Stephen, looking through the archives you have been threatening to do
something about your piano since Novemeber last year.

Stop thinking about it and Do Something!  drop the tension and cut the
strings, then you'll be committed

Brian


----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Airy" <stephen_airy@yahoo.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2001 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: Restoring old uprights


> Question -- what do you guys think of restoring Ricca
> & Son pianos?  I have one and i was wondering if you
> guys know if it was a good brand, or a junkie or what
> was it?  My piano needs some action work and new
> strings & tuning pins.  I think the pinblock is fine
> -- has 2/0 pins and the pins are fairy uniformly
> slightly loose -- probably would use 4/0.  I don't
> know if the soundboard is cracked or not and the bass
> bridge is somewhat cracked.
>
> --- Newton Hunt <nhunt@optonline.net> wrote:
> > Hi Charles,
> >
> > You ask a lot of good questions, I will try to
> > answer some of them with my
> > thoughts.
> >
> > > "Can you replace a pin block in an old
> > >  upright with(out) completely tearing the back
> > apart?"
> >
> > Yes you can, but, is the piano worth the time and
> > energy?  Some old uprights
> > were magnificent instruments, better than what is
> > affordable today, but some
> > were the cheap stuff like you can buy now.  The old
> > ones like Steinways, Masons,
> > Bush & Lane, and many others were first class
> > pianos.  Many of the others like
> > Gulbrensen, as an example, were cheap then and are
> > worthless today.
> >
> > So, a piano needs to be carefully appraised as to
> > the original quality and what
> > you are likely to get out of it when your work is
> > done.  Doing a few pianos will
> > give you the information you need to make rational
> > decisions, so, go to it.
> >
> > Now, technically, it can be done.  One is to drill a
> > large hole into the block
> > and replace the removed material with pin block
> > plugs and redrill.  Great care
> > needs to be taken to assure that the plugs are well
> > and truly glued into place
> > and that they will never (nearly) rotate.
> >
> > Old blocks can be "revived" by dribbling CA glue
> > down the pins, let set, tune,
> > reglue as needed.  This is a good solution but the
> > worst of the lot, except for
> > using pin block "tighteners", a real no-no by any
> > standard.
> >
> > The third way is to remove the plate, route out
> > sections of the old block and
> > replace with new material.  This assumes the old
> > material is mechanically solid
> > and well secured.  Replace the plate and redrill.
> >
> > > 2) In the method with the maple or pinblock
> > material plugs, that requires
> > > taking the plate off, right? Otherwise I can't see
> > how you'd get the plug
> > > in. Might be a silly question.
> >
> > No, unless it is one of the ones that do not have
> > plate bushings.  The plate can
> > be removed, the holes drilled out then plate
> > replaced and redrilled.  Removing
> > an upright plate is not as difficult as in a grand,
> > most of the time, so not
> > removing one is rather more of a bother.
> >
> > > " Is he talking about replacing the
> > > pinblock, or filling and re-drilling the holes?
> >
> > No, drilling out the holes with the plate in place
> > minus the plate bushings.
> > New bushings and redrilling the new plugs.  Plugs
> > made from new pinblock
> > material is the way to go.  There is no other
> > material that is useful in this
> > situation.  Not epoxy, fiberglass, talcum powder,
> > etc.
> >
> > > 4) Roy said that sometimes oversized pins don't
> > work to his satisfaction. In
> > > those cases, what is the problem? Can that problem
> > be determined ahead of
> > > time, or is it trial and error?
> >
> > Larger pins act like larger windlasses.  A large pin
> > will pull more wire per
> > turn than a smaller pin.  Old blocks often should be
> > plugged or replaced instead
> > of being repinned.  Larger pins are very often a
> > compromise and sometimes the
> > swing is the wrong way.  Knowing wood, construction,
> > pins, feel of old and new,
> > testing before committing, knowing quality of
> > product and a lot of other
> > decisions can help determine the better path.  There
> > are so many clues to
> > quality in the action, case, engineering and other
> > places that can help.
> > Ultimately doing it right helps more than trying to
> > determine what hides behind
> > a plate.
> >
> > > 5) Regarding using oversized pins on an old
> > upright: Is that just a way to
> > > get the job done in a reasonable and affordable
> > way for the customer, or is
> > > it something you would do if money weren't an
> > issue?
> >
> > In two words, yes, no.
> >
> > > On the one hand, the pinblock on an old
> > > upright is well protected from the elements
> >
> > Only to a limited degree.  Quality of materials,
> > glue, construction and
> > engineering count for far more.  Some climates can
> > destroy any piano and others
> > are benign.  Knowing some of the history is helpful
> > but knowing quality and the
> > materials help more.
> >
> > > and by using larger pins you might just be
> > > delaying or not dealing with a problem (like
> > cracks).
> >
> > Most exactly so, no argument, no discussion, no
> > debate.
> >
> > > Can someone jump in
> > > and offer more opinions?
> >
> > No, mine is the only one that counts.  :)  Now if
> > you belief that I know of a
> > bridge in Brooklyn...
> >
> > Have a great Sunday all.
> >
> > Newton
>
>
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