4-piece Chickering Pinblock

[Les Conover]

Hi, Mike,
    I have replaced pin blocks in these old
Chickerings several times.  The 2-block type seems to
be more common, but the 4-block is out there too, like
the one you have.  It's a perfect time to use up those
pin block pieces that aren't big enough for a
conventional block.  Your router table method is the
way I would fashion the step or ledge on the edges,
using one piece of wood, not a glued-up pair of
pieces.  Use any good pin block material that you're
comfortable with.  I prefer Delignet. In the 4-block
type the step goes all around the piece, but the only
one you really have to fit is the back edge as in a
conventional block.  Locate the screw holes, one or
two at a time, with dowel centers, pressing the block
into position with its own screws after you get the
first holes drilled and countersunk.  It's not a bad
system; you get out of having to attach the block to
the rim.  I would charge the same for the materials as
normal, even though you're using up your scraps, and
maybe 25% extra on your labor charge.
    Good luck, Les Conover (locoles@yahoo.com)
--- MikeToc440@AOL.COM wrote:
> List,
> 
> I am to give an estimate on replacing the pinblock
> of a 9' Chickering.  This 
> is the four-piece, full fit type.  Though I've done
> a Chickering block once 
> before, it wasn't my most efficient work.   Do any
> of you rebuilder-types 
> have a procedure for this one, or even a few tips? 
> Should the ledge on each 
> block section be cut out of one block (using a
> router table, as I did before) 
> or should each section be of 2 thinner blocks,
> fitted, then glued together?  
> Best block material?  Price of job as a % (multiple)
> of normal pinblock job?
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Michael Tocquigny
> 
> MikeToc440@aol.com


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